Grapes have been cultivated on this land since the region’s earliest recorded history and for two centuries, numerous generations of the Rougier family has been working these same vines. The family’s property clings to a single hillside in Montaiguet, a small hamlet just east of Aix-en-Provence, and twenty miles north of Marseille. The appellation that encompasses this village is Palette AOC, and even as a small independent producer, Château Simone produces a majority of the wine labeled within the designation. To the naked eye, Château Simone appears to be a classic family-run château, but it’s impossible to begin discussing the property without immediately diving into the myriad of qualities that make this one of the most exciting, unique and inimitable estates in France.
The first and perhaps most shocking feature that jumps out about the Rougier family’s vines is that they are north facing. Yes, you read that correctly—Château Simone’s vines cling to a 750-foot limestone face that is angled directly away from the sun. This is unusual, but it allows the vines to retain their freshness, despite the region’s fierce heat. It is one of the very few north facing vineyards I’ve ever seen that produces world class wine. Next, there is a mind-boggling diversity of grape varieties present in these ancient vines. Château Simone sits directly between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Bandol, so it’s logical to see standards like Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Syrah, and Carignan—but if you look a little closer you will be suprised to discover Cabernet Sauvignon, Manosquin, Castet, Muscat Noir, Théoulier, Tibouren, Picpoul Noir, Muscat de Hambourg and many others. Finally, the character of Château Simone’s wines is perhaps what is most unique and fascinating for sommeliers and collectors. Despite Provence’s long and sometimes punishingly hot growing season, the century-and-a-half old vines, and the diversity of thick skinned black grapes, Château Simone does not produce heavy or overpowering wines. On the contrary, the Rougier family is renowned for bottling beautifully elegant, floral, and aromatic reds that caress and finesse the palate rather than hammer it with alcohol and extract. This is a Provençal Grand Cru for lovers of Burgundy, Barbaresco, and traditional Bordeaux.
Château Simone’s grape clusters are all harvested by hand, destemmed and lightly pressed before fermentation. Indigenous yeast fermentation lasts for two to three weeks in wooden vats. Afterward, the wine is racked into foudre to rest on lees. After 18-24 months in foudre, the wine is racked once more into neutral, older barriques where it rests for an additional year before being bottled. All told, the entire process takes over four years before release into the US market—but it’s still not enough! In our experience with Château Simone, the wines often require an additional few years of cellaring before they start to show their stuff. This wine is no exception—but at almost seven years after harvest, it is just entering its sweet spot.
The 2009 Château Simone Rouge has a deep ruby center gradually transitioning to a garnet rim. Aromatics are classic Château Simone with pronounced crushed stone soil character, violets, Provencal herbs, English black tea, black truffle, leather, dried orange, black currants, black cherry and plum. As with all vintages of Château Simone, this wine is a chameleon; one moment it’s reminiscent of Barbaresco, next left bank Bordeaux, then Burgundy and back again. But the warmth of 2009 gives this bottle an extra dose of intensity and brooding power that is unique to the vintage. When drinking Château Simone, one is continually reminded that this property knows no close analog—it is truly one of the most unique and instantly identifiable reds bottled in France. This 2009 vintage is entering its optimal drinking window and will spend the next twelve to seventeen years evolving and growing more complex if cellared properly. For now, please decant for a minimum of one hour and serve from Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees. This deeply complex, elegant and layered red that demands a simple and pure dish to act as a counterpoint.
This roast lamb shoulder preparation would be a particularly brilliant companion. Boil some potatoes to dress with butter and parsley, prepare a simple tomato salad, decant the wine and you have all the makings of a superb late Summer Provencal feast!