There’s something about volcanic islands of the Mediterranean that infuses a peerless magic into white wine. The smoky soils, high elevation, and sea spray from the gleaming blue waters combine to deliver a completely unique sensory journey.
Such is the case with the ancient Caravaglio family on the Aeolian Island of Salina. Located just a few hours by ferry north of Sicily, this picturesque island, dotted with six volcanoes, spans the history of the Greeks, Romans, and Spaniards; its white wine is as complex as this tiny isle’s storied past. Derived from heirloom, organically farmed Malvasia vines perched atop plateau that sheer into the turquoise waters below (see photo), this 2015 Salina Bianco delivers a unique snapshot of terroir and a taste experience that is unlike anything else out there for a ridiculously modest price tag. If this wine doesn’t transport you to the Mediterranean, I don’t know what will.
All the minutia of boat changes and rickshaw rides aside, a few of my friends visited this estate and have unanimously placed tasting with the local Salina legend among their most memorable wine experiences – ever. Salina translates to “salt mill” in Italian for the ancient site that once produced sea salt. In fact, the island enjoys a rich, complex history that dates to the 4th century BC. In modern times, Antonino Caravaglio is lauded as a modern success story on the isle of Salina, but his Spanish ancestors actually graced the storied island’s shores over 500 years ago. In the early 1500’s, five Spanish families traversed the Med to farm on the volcanic-dotted terrain. With Greek rootstock of Malvasia delle Lipari and Corinto Nero, these early vignerons farmed organically, and their descendants eschewed phylloxera thanks to isolation, sea spray air, and volcanic soils. The Caravaglio estate has been continuously farmed with organic principles over the centuries, but it was under Antonino that they were certified organic in 1990’s – one of the earliest in the region to do so. As a matter of fact, few regions of the world can actually boast this continuous chain of organic viticulture, which results in a varietal purity, thriving life force and sense of place in the glass that is simply awe-inspiring.
Today, Antoninio Caravaglio, his wife Elisa and their daughter Alda, continue to craft wines with serious respect for tradition. The 2015 Malvasia Bianco is derived of 90% Malvasia Bianco and 10% indigenous varietals that are rooted in volcanic sand and rock between 200 and 400 meters in elevation on a site that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea. The 20 to 30-year-old heirloom vines are hand-harvested then gently pressed in whole clusters into climate-controlled stainless steel where the wine undergoes fermentation with only native yeasts then ages on its fine lees for three months. Antonino ferments his wine dry with little exposure to oxygen unlike the traditionally sweet wines that once dominated the region. The result is a wine of newborn freshness and mineral-drive with a personality and inimitable taste narrative that is wholly unique. Although the subtle salinity and smoky characteristic from the volcanic soils hearken back to fine examples of Santorini’s Assyrtiko, this wine stands alone and is a rare snapshot of the stunning island’s storied past and geology.
The 2015 Salina Bianco exhibits a light straw yellow core with green highlights on the rim. The aromas are salivating, fresh and vibrant with notes of fresh peach, yellow apple, lemon blossom, crushed rocks and a briny character reminiscent of the salty air. The palate is bone-dry and incredibly mineral-driven with flavors of lemon pith, white peach pit and melon peel intertwined with a slightly salty finish that simply begs for fresh seafood. This wine should be enjoyed fairly cold, ideally about 10-15 minutes after you take it from the refrigerator. Large Bordeaux stems seem to be the best choice of stemware, but any large glass is appropriate. This refreshing beauty will be in its youthful, supple prime over the next few years, but should also keep well over the next 5+ years due to its high acidity and mineral-driven composure. Grilled seafood of any kind will shine alongside this wine, but the ultimate pairing could very well be
this quintessential grilled Sardine recipe.
