This pristine, aged Meursault has all the complexity of a near decade of age along with the freshness we all hope for in a mature white Burgundy. As many of you know, earlier this year I came across a rare lot of perfectly cellared Burgundy that had been moved only once since leaving the Domaine’s cold cellar.
Derived from this incredible source, today’s 2007 Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot is offered at a price even below market price for the current 2014 release. Grown in two premium lieux-dit in the coveted southern end of Meursault, traditional winemaking, ideal cellaring and excellent parcels combine with the pitch-perfect 2007 growing season to produce exactly what I look for in a mature bottle of Meursault. This stunning example will charm today - or anytime in the next decade if kept well. In a world where mature white Burgundy is getting more and more costly, this modest price is simply astounding.
The craftsman of this wine, Rodolphe Demougeot, followed his grandparents into winemaking. When he took the reins of their estate in 1998 he shifted the focus of production to organic principles. Through horse-plowing to aerate the soil, omitting herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers and tending to the vineyards with a more organic approach, he captured the terroir and naturally nurtured the ecosystem of his vineyards. As a result, the vines and soil came to life and began delivering grapes with an abundance of energy and flavor.
This 2007 Meursault is not your typical village-level white Burgundy. It is derived from two special lieux-dit, Les Pellans and Les Chaumes, which are located at the southern end of Meursault in stony clay and limestone soils. Les Pellans, planted in 1957, is actually adjacent to Puligny-Montrachet and delivers the same deep mineral profile as the wines of this famous village. Les Chaumes is poised just a stone’s throw upslope from the Premier Cru of Perrieres. This southern locale’s intense minerality and ideal sunny aspect, added to the higher acidity of the 2007 vintage gets you a wine that is structurally firing on all cylinders. The hand-harvested fruit is picked with respect to the lunar calendar, and the wine is moved by this cycle as well. Grapes are gently pressed in whole clusters over the course of three hours. The wine is aged in 10% new 228-liter and larger 350-liter French oak for one year, and then for 4-5 months further in vats, imparting a purity of varietal expression and fine a Meursault minerality. Stirring of the lees is undertaken only when the vintage calls for it. The wine is gently bottled via gravity flow and the result is simply mesmerizing.
The 2007 Meursault displays a golden core with green and golden reflections on the rim, showing its near decade of age. The otherworldly nose is simultaneously mature, complex and incredibly fresh. Aromatics of slightly dried yellow apple, lime blossom, crushed hazelnut, white flowers, a touch of melted butter and a hint of beautifully integrated baking spices light up the senses. On the palate, the wine has a strong medium body, the definitive minerality that Meursault is known for as well as ample freshness without even a hint of oxidation. In short, this beauty is everything I look for in a decade-old bottle of white Burgundy. To enjoy, simply open ten minutes prior to serving at cellar temperature in Burgundy stems and let this wine unfold in the glass.