Few regions conjure up visions of fairytale splendor like the sight of Côte-Rôtie where Roman-built terraced vineyards climb the roasted slope like steep steps for a giant on tip-toe. The ancient appellation is a wonder to behold and an even greater marvel to farm.
The wines produced from this tiny world-class appellation are also as magical as the picturesque vineyards. One of my favorite expressions of any red wine in the world, this special patch of the Northern Rhône can take on the perfumed elegance of Burgundy with the unique, violets, olive and roasted meat-laced characteristics you would expect from great Syrah. Although many examples require a minimum of 5-6 years to display their true nuance and beauty, this 2012 from Domaine de Bonserine’s ‘La Sarrasine’ parcel is incredible now and will only continue to impress over the next decade. This is a phenomenal bottle of Côte-Rôtie on par with some of the finest of the appellation. If you are building a great collection of wines, this is a selection that you simply cannot miss.

Domaine de Bonserine was founded in 1972 by Alfred Gerin along with his American business partner. The estate was purchased in 2006 by the Guigal negociant house which is considered by many to be responsible for the exposure of the famed appellation of Côte-Rôtie to the world market. Under Guigal’s ownership, the domaine has been granted a new, state-of-the-art cellar with climate-controlled tanks and new 600-liter demi-muid oak barrels. The ten hectares comprise some of the finest sites in the appellation and makes them one of the largest land owners in the Côte-Rôtie AOC. The La Sarrasine parcel boasts iron-rich schist and mica soils descending the steeply terraced slope and delivers an approachable beauty that will evolve to even greater height over the next 10-15 years.

The 2012 La Sarrasine is derived from a blend of 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier. On the roasted slope, Viognier is allowed in the production of Syrah and often lends another layer of complexity and delicacy for which the celebrated appellation is known. The grapes are raised as naturally as possible without chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides and are kept to very low yields. The hand-harvested fruit is meticulously sorted then entirely destemmed. The fruit is fermented with only natural yeasts over three weeks and is cold macerated for one week. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and is aged for an extended 24 months in 80% new demi-muids.

The 2012 La Sarrasine exhibits a dark, concentrated crimson core with slight orange reflections on the rim. Perfumed, floral and elegant aromas of blueberry, black cherry, and black plum are infused with notes of dried violets, underbrush, vintage leather, dried black olive, black pepper, beef jerky and a beautiful array of exotic spices. The near full-bodied palate offers a soft, silky mouthfeel deepened by richness and sweetness to the lush fruit while maintaining Côte-Rôtie’s unique elegance and purity. Flavors of wild berries give way to savory nuances, dry meat, cured olive, pepper and spices that intricately bind a core of beautiful supple fruit. Pure joy to drink now, this wine will further reveal its most magical moments between its tenth and fifteenth birthday and could reach its grandest peak after many decades for those of you with patience. For immediate indulgence, decant this wine for one hour and serve in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. If you opt to wait for its more refined beauty to emerge over the next several years, opt instead for a Burgundy stem to experience its vast nuances in maturity.