Although this Aligoté calls Chassagne-Montrachet home, it is designated as Bourgogne Aligoté on the label. Grown in Burgundy since the 17th century, the unique varietal gained appellation status in 1937. A very distant cousin to Chardonnay, the grape is predominantly relegated to lower stretches and high hilltops but is capable of unexpected concentration and texture in the right hands. Such is the case with Bouard-Bonnefoy’s offering. This particular wine is produced from a one-hectare site in Chassagne-Montrachet. Derived from predominantly clay soil, the vines range in age from 13 to 48 years of age, which comprise the oldest and youngest plantings of the unique varietal in the entire appellation.
Domaine Bouard-Bonnefoy is a family-run estate based in Chassagne-Montrachet. They own five-hectares of incredible parcels across Chassagne-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin, and Puligny-Montrachet. Owner and winemaker, Fabrice, and his wife, Carine, are fifth-generation winemakers for the family domaine. After a tour in the military, Fabrice returned to the family business in 2006 and began crafting and domaine-bottling his wines without the influence of négociants. He has stayed true to tradition in the fields as well as the cellar. Their vineyards are plowed and tended without herbicides and is farmed “lutte raisonée,” which translates to “reasoned fight.” This method of farming utilizes only organic products and practices unless an extreme circumstance presents itself in a difficult vintage. Harvest is strictly conducted by hand with meticulous care, and the effort is abundantly evident in the glass.
The family’s small, charmingly antiquated winery feels like stepping back in time as you descend the cellar steps. Fabrice continues to utilize a hand-cranked wooden press as well as a bottling line where the family bottles, corks and labels each wine by hand without fining or filtration. Wines are fermented with only natural yeasts and are aged without the overt influence of new oak. The domaine produces just over twenty barrels each year, but what they lack in size they more than make up for in incredible quality and attention to detail. The result is a stunning Aligoté that drinks well above expectations as well as the modest price point. For those of you who love the great wines of Chassagne-Montrachet, this unique varietal from the famous appellation is something you absolutely must experience.
The 2014 Aligoté displays a highly reflective core of pale straw with hints of green and a touch of gold on the rim. Clean, bright and slightly creamy, the nose delights with aromas of yellow apple, pear, white flowers, acacia blooms, stirred lees and a touch of crushed limestone. The medium-bodied palate boasts ample concentration for Aligoté and delivers beautiful texture akin to Chassagne Chardonnay once it gains enough air. With bright citrus, crème and nuanced nuttiness intertwined with finely crushed minerals, this stunning expression of the varietal is simply pulsing with life and energy. A joy to consume at the moment, this bottle can age another 3-7 years if kept well. This wine needs sufficient air and should not be served too cold, or the lovely texture and aromatics will be subdued. For optimal results decant for 30-45 minutes and serve in Burgundy stems between 55-60 degrees alongside this classic Sole Meunière.