Classic Grenache from France’s Southern Rhône Valley rarely gets the attention it deserves among consumers. Just a step up from old world Pinot Noir in terms of structure and concentration, the varietal originally hails from northern Spain’s Catalonia, where it is known as Garnacha.
Grenache finds its most classic and celebrated expression in the Southern Rhône where it is the star of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Although top examples of Châteauneuf-du-Pape can demand stratospheric prices, this delicious Grenache-led wine from the region of Vacqueyras overperforms for a fraction of the price of its famous neighbor. We are always on the hunt for the best price-to-quality and this 2013 example definitely hits the mark. This wine has perfectly ripe fruit combined with complex savory nuances that lend a true sense of place. For those of you building a cellar, this wine will mature into a serious beauty in just a few years and represents an offer to stock by the case at this modest price.
The Cheron Family’s roots dig deep in the soils of Burgundy, and it wasn’t until the 1960’s that they started their Southern Rhône domaine with an eye toward the untapped potential of the appellations of Vacqueyras and Gigondas. Denis Cheron purchased a winery in Gigondas and began crafting wines sourced from grapes purchased from local, quality-driven vignerons. Following an education at the esteemed Lycée Viticole in Beaune, Yves Cheron joined his father in 1982. That same year, their close relationship with the owners of the Grand Montmirail estate, gave the family the rights to purchase the prized vineyards. Once Yves took the reins, he expanded the family’s holdings and has nurtured his vines that are rooted in granite cliffs on south-southeast oriented slopes at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail. In this special pocket of the Southern Rhône, the complexity of the ancient soils knows few equals. The Dentelles de Montmirail are a small mountain range adorned with dramatic, saw-toothed limestone ridges from the Jurassic period, that dominate the picturesque landscape.
Yves’ vineyards are sustainably farmed and only organic products and practices are used unless an extreme circumstance presents itself in a difficult vintage. The wines are hand-harvested in several stages for ideal ripeness and are sorted both in the fields and then again in the cellar. The Vacqueyras Grand Montmirail is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah fermented in stainless steel tanks. The juice is pneumatically punched down daily during the two-week maceration. Grenache is transferred via gravity into cement tanks and a portion of the Syrah is gravity transferred into new and one-year-old barrels. The finished wine is bottled without fining and only the bottom of the tank undergoes light filtration. The resulting wine has ample purity, abundant fruit, bright freshness and an authentic sense of place.
Today’s wine displays a very dark garnet red core with a hint of orange and light garnet reflections on the rim. The intensely perfumed and concentrated nose offers a fragrance of ripe, slightly dried black cherry, black raspberry and Chambord over a bouquet of dried violets, rose petals and garrigue, which is reminiscent of strolling through a field of fresh mountain herbs, while a hint of white pepper, olive and smoked meat linger in the distant background. Near full-bodied, this class expression of Vacqueyras is beautifully structured and mineral driven, thanks to its unique stony soils on the slopes of Dentelles de Montmirail. Flavors of cassis, cherry, raspberry and bright pomegranate are intertwined with beautiful crushed rock minerality, black tea, a touch of leather, white pepper, olive and meat that is lifted by refreshing acidity and lingers on the palate for a long, enchanting finish. This wine is beautiful now, but also has an incredible life ahead of it. We anticipate this bottle peaking in 3-5 years, although it could easily last a decade or more if kept well. To enjoy now, decant for 30 minutes and serve at cellar temperature. Burgundy stems work well, but this beauty shows its very best out of Bordeaux stems. Although this wine will shine alongside classic French Cassoulet, it is also a perfect partner for this summer’s barbeque. For an inspired pairing, try Cindy Pawlcyn’s Baby Back Ribs from her Mustard’s Grill Napa Valley Cookbook.
