Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy works exclusively in Gevrey-Chambertin and has earned a reputation for capturing the essence of this world-famous village in every bottle. They accomplish this by organically hand-farming many top parcels in the village and keeping things simple in the cellar. The result is among the most terroir-driven and quintessential red Burgundies money can buy. If you wish to lose yourself in a deep, truly soulful bottle and be reminded of why Gevrey-Chambertin is one of the top Pinot Noir-producing villages on Earth, I urge you to jump on today’s offer. It’s a classic example, and an opportunity to experience elite quality at a relatively modest price. This wine is one of the greatest young bottles of Gevrey I have had in years with the incredible fruit and perfume we seek in the most famous Grand Cru sites.
Of the ten different single vineyards bottled by Gerard Harmand and his son, Phillipe, the En Jouise parcel is always one of my favorites. This is a recognized “insider wine” for experienced collectors and followers of the estate who know this parcel produces a wine that is in every way equivalent to the Harmands’ top premier cru bottling—only at a significantly lower price. And given that En Jouise is located just below the Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin, this is a rare example of real value in Burgundy. The Harmands’ vines in En Jouise are 60-80 years old, and the soil is the timeless Gevrey cocktail of clay, limestone, and marl. Grapes for this parcel are hand-harvested and destemmed before fermenting for 2-3 weeks. After that, the wine is racked into mostly neutral small French oak barrels where the wine rests for a year and a half before bottling without fining or filtration. In short, there are no frills or gadgetry in this cellar—just simplicity, patience, and the knowledge and expertise passed down across countless generations of the same family working the same land.
As the first aromas rise from the glass, it is clear that Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy has produced yet another classic expression of the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir. The nose is beautifully perfumed with aromas of dried black cherry, wild forest berries and citrus blossoms against a darker, earthier backdrop of black tea, wet herbs, dried roses, forest floor, wet clay with a touch of exotic spice. Harmand-Geoffroy has a gift for accentuating Gevrey’s masculinity, and there is a subtle yet primal meatiness here that I love. This is true, traditional Gevrey-Chambertin that telegraphs the village’s terroir; not just “good red Burgundy”. The wine is medium-plus in body with concentrated fruit and soft, yet structured tannins with flavors that echo the nose. In the glass, it has a concentrated dark ruby core moving to light garnet and orange reflections on the rim, beginning to show a touch of age at about four years old. Although open and effortlessly delicious now, this wine will hit a new level of savory grace in 3-4+ years from now, before peaking for another five years. If drinking this wine now, please decant for 30 minutes then serve in a large Burgundy stem at just above cellar temperature. Next, sit back and observe as the wine’s layered and finely nuanced story slowly unfolds over the next few hours. This is a fascinating bottle that is full of surprises. With its ample fruit and texture, it is a perfect companion for
Braised Duck Legs with Dried Cherries. Alongside this phenomenal recipe, this wine is an experience you don’t want to miss.