The world-renowned appellation of Gevrey-Chambertin is blessed with an inimitable, unique soil composition that is comprised of an alluvial fan, marine sediment and limestone from the Jurassic Period. All told, the celebrated Grand Cru vineyard of Mazis-Chambertin enjoys a thin surface or brown, chalky limestone over a small layer of scree and silt that rests over a subsoil of marl. Vines are rooted in no more than ten centimeters of shallow soil and are forced to struggle, which results in ample concentration of minerality and the masculine structure that sets the great vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin apart from all others. The Tortochot family has been nourishing vines here in the great soils of Gevrey-Chambertin for four generations. When humble vigneron, Paul Tortochot, married his son, Félix, to Louise Liébaut from Morey-Saint-Denis in the 1800’s, a great family legacy was born. Louise actually had a clone of Pinot Noir named after her family! Their son, Gabriel, ran the estate for decades and brought the Tortochot name even greater fame. Today, his daughters, Brigitte and Chantal run the domaine and have pushed the envelope even further in terms of quality.
The domaine has thrived under the two passionate, quality-driven sisters. Starting in 2003, Chantal began experimenting with organic practices to great success then opted to convert the entirely of the estate’s holdings to organic viticulture. Certification was granted with this 2013 vintage and the result is quite evident in the quality found in the glass. The Tortochots make the thriving ecosystem of their vineyards top priority. They meticulously prune, green harvest and limit yields to 7-8 bunches per vine stock. The result is ample concentration and immense purity of fruit and terroir. The pristine fruit is entirely hand-harvested then 100% de-stemmed prior to a gentle crush. The grapes are cold macerated for 4-5 days then fermented with only natural yeasts in climate-controlled stainless steel tanks where the wine undergoes daily pump-overs and twice daily punch-downs. The wine is then pressed into 100% new French oak, which is only medium-toasted to ensure the voice of the fruit and terroir is crystal clear. The wine is aged for 18 months then bottled without fining or filtration. This incredibly traditional Mazis-Chambertin represents the Grand Cru vineyard at its most classic, with the structure to last the ages and the elegance to charm even the most discerning great red Burgundy lover.
The 2013 Mazis-Chambertin exhibits a deeply concentrated, dark ruby core with slight ruby and orange reflections on the rim. Deep, powerful and expansive aromas of classic great Burgundy open with red plum, just picked strawberry and black cherry then evolve to reveal dried black tea, mushroom powder, wet sage, wet violet and rose petals, damp tree bark, dew-kissed fern and various exotic spices that culminate into a stunningly complex nose of bright fruit and brooding savory characteristics. The dense, full-bodied palate boasts structured tannins, revealing its outstanding lineage, and is layered with bright, pristine fruit and complex earthy aromas of flowers, herbs, tea leaf, exotic spices and a hint of leather that drives the seemingly never-ending finish. This rich, structured and harmonious Pinot Noir is precisely what we expect and hope for in Grand Cru Gevrey-Chambertin. Although charming in its youth, this wine is a mere child. Save at least one bottle for another 3-5 years in the dark reaches of your cellar for a wine that will charm you beyond belief. If you have the patience, this wine’s best years will most likely fall between it’s 10th and 20th birthday, although many wines from the vintages of 1978 and 1985 are currently peaking. In short, this Grand Cru beauty has an incredible life ahead of it if kept properly. If you choose to enjoy a bottle now, you will not be disappointed. Simply extract the cork and leave the bottle for 3-4 hours in a cool spot prior to serving in Burgundy stems at roughly 60-65F. Pair with
a rich duck confit like this one. Or purchase your duck confit and serve it over potatoes roasted in duck fat. The intense fattiness of the duck marries beautifully with this rich, structured wine and will make for a night you will never forget.
