As in the natural world, there are “endangered species” of wine. With perpetually changing technology, climate, and popular tastes, sometimes entire classic and time-honored styles of wine can disappear. So, before it’s too late, I want to spotlight one of these wines that is most dear to my heart: traditional, long-macerated Nebbiolo.
I’ve enjoyed many life changing Barolos from the 1960’s made in this style and I will say that today’s selection is one of the only modern wines that comes close to approximating their inimitable character and greatness. Antonello Rovellotti’s Ghemme is the last of a dying breed, a rare glimpse into Nebbiolo’s bygone golden era, and I believe it is equal, if not superior, to many of today’s most prestigious Barolos. This is a timeless, breathtaking wine which is ready to drink now, but will only get better and better each year in your cellar
Antonello Rovellotti lives in the small village appellation of Ghemme that hugs Piemonte’s northern border with Switzerland. Ghemme is centered around a sprawling, multi-city block-sized castle built in the 1100’s and Antonello is the only winemaker still permitted to work in the original structure. His “winery” is little more than a collection of trap doors, lofts, and crawl spaces hidden all over the castle. Despite the miniscule production volume here, it takes numerous key rings and an hour of exploring and climbing ladders to see the entire operation. And while Antonello is a gifted and experienced winemaker, and his vines are among the village’s oldest and most prized, the real story with Rovellotti is his vinification. Simply put, these wines are made the long and hard way. Grapes are macerated for longer than any other property I’ve ever visited in Piemonte and the wines are released after a minimum of seven years in barrel and bottle. Most modern wine producers aren’t willing to defer profits for that long so they cut corners and make wines in a style that can be released sooner. Rovellotti is the opposite—these wines are still produced exactly as they were in the 1960’s.
The 2008 Rovellotti Ghemme “Chioso dei Pomi” is a result of Antonello’s infinite patience, bulletproof integrity, and strict adherence to tradition. It is a timeless and perfect expression of Nebbiolo. In the glass the wine has a crimson center dissolving into a bloodier hue at the rim. Wild berry, leather, violets, white truffle, and white pepper aromas erupt from the glass as soon as the wine is opened, and then continue evolving and expanding for many hours thereafter. Still, on the palate is where this wine defines itself. The depth of structural complexity, the layers of perfectly orchestrated tannins, and its haunting and endless finish are all products of a style of winemaking that is all but extinct. I advise decanting for 2 hours prior to drinking in a large Burgundy stem. The wine is a companion made in heaven for grilled porterhouse or rack of lamb. Finally, I’ll reiterate that this is a historic wine that exists in a style and class all its own, and it will only improve for decades to come. I am personally setting aside a case for my cellar and I encourage everyone to do the same—this is one of the greats.
