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Michel Autran, Vouvray, 'Les Enfers Tranquilles'

Loire Valley, France 2014 (750mL)
$30.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol

Michel Autran, Vouvray, 'Les Enfers Tranquilles'


The grassy, riverside plateau in the appellation of Vouvray is dotted with sprawling vineyards and the most magnificent, ancient chateaux in the entirety of France. Perched along the right bank of the Loire River, across from Montlouis, this famous appellation lies roughly two hours south of Paris. Cultivated since the middle ages, this historic appellation continues to be the source of the world’s most classic expressions of Chenin Blanc. Producer Michel Autran is a relatively new talent in the area, but he takes his inspiration and knowledge from one of the most revered names in the entire Loire Valley. His mentor, legend François Pinon, has been a leader in biodynamic viticulture and natural winemaking since the movement’s early years in the challenging, northern locale. Michel Autran, like his mentor, captures the powerful voice of one of France’s most profound appellations for terroir and delivers the essence and energy of its unique environment that is teeming with life. Organic and biodynamically farmed from older vines that average nearly 50 years of age, this example of Vouvray is a perfect example of the appellation with an unmistakable sense of place.
 
Rooted in silex, limestone, and calcareous soils, this wine offers such complex minerality to the palate that it is almost impossible for the brain to process. Half of the pristine fruit is fermented with only native yeast in stainless steel while the remaining half is split between 228-liter and 400-liter neutral French oak, which allows for a transparent expression of the varietal and its haunting minerality. A total non-interventionist in the cellar, Michel uses only a minuscule amount of SO2, and the wine is bottled with very light filtration. With just about 5 or so grams per liter of residual sugar per liter, this wine feels almost entirely dry and is beautifully balanced with brilliant acidity, layered richness and that unmistakable minerality we all crave. An incredibly authentic snapshot of what the appellation has to offer, if you have never taken a chance on great Vouvray, now is the time to do so.
 
This thought-provoking wine displays a concentrated pale golden core with a hint of green and gold reflections on the meniscus. The intense and alluring nose reveals a touch of oxidation, which is often typical of Chenin Blanc even in its youth. Think of a yellow apple which was cut an hour ago. The aromas of fresh and slightly dried yellow apples and pears fills the senses and evolves into notes of dried lemon peel, lemon blossom, dried acacia flowers, chamomile tea, white button mushrooms, cheese rind, leavening bread dough, wet wool, honeycomb and a slight oyster shell and crushed stone note. Medium-plus in body, the palate delivers an almost undetectable level of residual sugar and is balanced by high acid along with beautiful richness and intensity. Flavors of yellow apple and dried lemon are layered with beeswax, complex savory notes similar to the nose and an incredible mineral expression that delivers a rollercoaster for the senses and a lingering finish. This wine is stunning in its infancy although it will blossom in 6-7 years and reveal a life that is nearly endless. Some of the greatest Vouvray I have ever experienced has been between 30-40 years old. For immediate gratification, decant for one hour and serve just under cellar temperature in Burgundy stems. Practically couture-fashioned for food, this wine will be simply enchanting alongside pork loin, roast chicken or this recipe for Sole au Vin Blanc.
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Country
France
Region
Loire Valley
Sub-Region
FranceVouvray
Soil
Silex and Clay
Farming
Organic and Biodynamic
Blend
Chenin Blanc
Alcohol
12.5
OAK
Neutral

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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