Just over an hour east of Nice, France in the Italian appellation of Riviera Ligure di Ponente, the village of Ortovero is home to the source of today’s wine. Nestled between Piedmont and Tuscany in the Italian Riviera, this intimidating terrain is not for a vigneron who seeks the path of least resistance. Nevertheless, the salted vines rooted in high elevation soils deliver something magical that makes all the effort worth it. With round and opulent texture, coupled with incredible salinity, minerality and ample freshness, this wine is practically an anomaly. All the stars align to deliver incredible weight and concentration with unusual complexity and an unforgettable sense of place.
Just seven miles from the coast in Ortovero, Marco Brangero, of Piedmont’s Brangero, crafts this stunning Pigato from a vineyard site that boasts over 300 years of history. Surrounded by olive trees and a staggering view of the Mediterranean, this picturesque site delivers the pitch-perfect balance of freshness and minerality and is beautifully crafted by Marco’s Ligurian label, La Ginestraia. The hand-harvested fruit is cold macerated, softly pressed and gently fermented at controlled temperatures, which is done to capture the incredible aromatic potential of this unique Ligurian varietal. The result is an expression of Pigato that is as harmoniously balanced as it is lush and generous.
The 2014 Pigato has a brilliant, concentrated light golden, straw yellow core with green and gold reflections on the rim. The nose delivers an incredible sense of place and delights with an array of salt-kissed white flowers, freshly cut peach pit, yellow apple, melon rind, salt-crusted lemon peel, hazelnut, a touch of white mushroom and a hint of crushed white earth. Slightly oily and near full-bodied, the palate reveals immense concentration and roundness with layered flavors of fruit that confirms the nose and sea spray salinity that evolves into an unforgettable mineral-driven finish. This is a serious white. To enjoy, simply decant for twenty minutes and serve just under cellar temperature (50-55F). Pair this wine with fritto misto or
this traditional Ligurian Pesto Pasta with a whole grilled fish. This wine is incredible; you will wish you had at least 3-4 bottles for a mere party of six.
