Silvio was born to a Tunisian-French mother and a Libyan father who farmed fruits and nuts in Tunisia, very close to the Libyan border. Fleeing political unrest from the early Ben Salah and Gaddafi regimes, Silvio's family established a small grape farm in the village of San Casciano Val Di Pesa, in the heart of Chianti Classico in the early 1960s. On this small plot of limestone and clay, Silvio's father planted Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino—traditional varieties used in Chianti. Silvio still works the vines as his father did: no advanced technology or chemicals, no winemaking tricks, and no desire to build an expensive luxury brand. He simply wants to make a small amount of picture-perfect, rustic, old school wine that drinks far beyond its surprisingly modest price tag.
Today’s wine is Montesecondo’s “secret” bottling. It’s not advertised, but the fruit for this bottling is from the exact same vineyard as Silvio’s pricier Chianti Classico bottling -- the same old vines, the same meticulous organic and biodynamic farming. The only difference is that it does not spend time in oak barrels. The result is a wine with all the impact and definition of the property’s higher end cuvées, but with an extra dose of vivacity and juiciness.
The 2014 Montesecondo Rosso Toscana has a dark crimson core moving to ruby and garnet reflections on the rim. On the nose the wine is bright and full of energy, showing aromas of black cherry, fresh red plum, blood orange, rose petals, oiled leather and crushed stone. This medium bodied red offers chewy tannins and fresh acidity which frames the wine’s focused core. Silvio’s wines are always difficult bottles to drink slowly, but especially so with this vintage—it’s incredibly juicy and thirst quenching. This wine benefits from a quick 30 minute decant, then serve in a large Burgundy glass just above cellar temperature. While I often recommend that the wines of Chianti Classico be enjoyed with a fatty steak, this wine offers more eclectic opportunities for pairing at the table. Because of its gentler profile and brighter acidity, it’s a phenomenal companion to roast chicken—or even a seared Ahi tuna steak! And finally, I want to stress that while this bottle is outstanding now, it will certainly improve over the next 3-4 years. Especially at this modest price, it’s a great opportunity to experience first hand how Tuscan Sangiovese develops greater complexity and depth as it matures.
