Port, or Portugal’s fortified wine from the Douro Valley has a rich history that dates back to the 1600s when ancient monasteries began crafting the wine to endure the rough seas on ships. The wines were “fortified” (alcohol added) to reach the market in Britain. One of the older existing Port houses and among the top producers in the region, Niepoort remains one of my very favorites. The Niepoort family has been an important source of Port in the Douro Valley since 1842. Currently, the fifth generation brother and sister team—Dirk and Verena—craft wines from the family estate with the utmost respect for tradition. When Dirk took over for his father in 2005, he purchased additional premium vineyard parcels and planted more indigenous varietals, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Amarela, Sousão and Tinta Roriz, in an effort to further increase quality. The Niepoorts continue to maintain the healthy, older vines that already existed on the property and they currently farm all their parcels biodynamically. Their viticulture team respects the natural cycles of the vines as well as the relationship between the distinct terroir and each unique vine.

In Tawny Port production, indigenous Portuguese varietals are harvested late then pressed and fermented to only 8% alcohol. At that point, fermentation is halted with the addition of about 20% of the wines volume in brandy which leaves behind residual sugar along with roughly 20% alcohol, which both serve as a preservatives for the wine. Tawny Port is then aged for at least seven years in barrel where oxygen exposure breaks down the fruit aromas and leaves a caramelized, nutty and savory characteristic that is totally distinct and bring aromas similar to Madeira. Ruby Port (Vintage port is included in this style), on the other hand, is typically exposed to a very small amount of oxygen that leaves the dark-hued wine full of overripe raisinated fruit flavors which provide a completely different flavor profile. The 10-Year indication on the label of Tawny Port doesn’t actually reveal how old the wine is. It is merely an indication of the house’s specific, consistent style, but varies from house to house. It is designed to taste like a 10 YR Tawny, but some houses blend much older wines due to high standards in quality. Niepoort’s 10-Year Tawny offers an experience on par with many producers 20-Year examples due to the very old lots that are blended in to deliver a style and quality that drinks well above its price point.

The Niepoort 10-Year Tawny Port displays a very light brown, amber core with yellow hues on the meniscus. The incredibly soft dose delights the senses with nutty aromas of caramelized hazelnuts, dried figs, yellow apple and currants, sandalwood, dried honeycomb and subtle notes of wet mushroom and toffee. On the palate, the wine is rich and generously sweet, like all tawny ports, but strikes the perfect balance that compliments the residual sugar with a toffee and sandalwood-laden finish that seems to linger for an eternity. One of the most satisfying sips of wine, it performs like no other wine in the world thanks to the unique varietals and distinct, labor-intensive aging process, which is almost impossible to duplicate outside of the legendary region. This wine is as good as it is going to get and should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. As I mentioned before, this example can be open for months without revealing a major difference in the flavor profile. At your next dinner party, after the main course is cleared, serve this wine just under room temperature—ideally 65-70°F—with toasted walnut raisin bread, berry compote and candied nuts. Decanting is never needed for Tawny port. Some cheeses to seek out for this pairing are: triple cream brie, la tur, aged goat cheese, blue cheese and pecorino. If you do not own Port stems, all-purpose white wine stems or Riesling stems will quite well.