Bourgogne Rouge can be one of the most compelling games of chance in the Côte de Nuits. While some examples are derived from inferior sites and deliver the simplistic drinking experience to match, others can be derived from famous sites that have been replanted and are merely waiting for vines to mature before they are bottled under their vineyards namesake. With Charles Van Canneyt’s unfettered access to prized vineyards in Burgundy, I am convinced, after tasting this magnificent Bourgogne Rouge, that this is precisely the case. Although the young and masterful Monsieur Canneyt is winemaker to one of the most prestigious domaines in all of Burgundy, he has also been diligently working to establish his own, highly-allocated micro-négoce firm since the 2012 vintage. While Domaine Hudelot-Noellat is crafted for his family, Canneyt crafts the wines of his own label purely to express his own voice as a winemaker—and what a voice! This is undoubtedly one of the most stunning Bourgogne Rouges of my extensive acquaintance.
The Hudelot family continues to be an important Burgundian family with roots that stretch back before the revolution. Domaine Hudelot-Noellat was founded by Charles’ esteemed grandfather, Alain Hudelot, in 1964. Comprised of some of the most famous vineyards in all of Burgundy, the family holdings include Grand Crus in Richebourg as well as Romanée Saint-Vivant, to name a couple. When Charles took the helm in 2008, he continued to craft wines in the non-interventionist style that made the Domaine famous for its classic expressions of terroir-driven Burgundy. Crafted in a meticulous hands-off approach, this wine is every bit as terroir-driven and finessed as the Domaine wines that have reached even greater heights during his short tenure. This brilliantly crafted Bourgogne Rouge boasts pedigree well beyond its label and is a faithful snapshot of one of Burgundy’s greatest young winemakers’ abilities at work.
This Bourgogne Rouge boasts a highly reflective, ruby red core with garnet reflections on the rim. The nose allures with aromatics of a classic, young Chambolle-Musigny with notes of pure, fresh strawberry, cherry and red plum laced with wet rose petal, dew-kissed forest floor and a charming overall perfume that we all hope for in quality wines of the Côte de Nuits when produced by a top winemaker. On the palate, this fine, soft tannins are elevated by an elegant tension, exquisite texture and layers of complexity that are incredibly rare for a Bourgogne Rouge. Undoubtedly a product of a declassified, top site in Burgundy, this wine is a wine to treasure for a price point that is a small fraction of what these vines will inevitably become in the future. Decant this wine for one hour and serve in Burgundy stems at cellar temperature for best results, but be sure to stow some away for a reward in the future.
