Spreading out from the romantic village of Chavignol are some of the most treasured vineyard sites in all of Sancerre, ‘Les Monts Damnés,’ which roughly translates to “the damned mountain.” The name is apropos considering the fact that the Cotats, by necessity, invented a system in which brave harvesters strap cushions to their rear ends to slide down the dangerously steep slopes while picking the bounty each year. The effort is inevitably worth it, however. Today’s wine is sourced from one of the best, highest parcels on the north-facing slope of the famous vineyard. The Sancerre equivalent of a Grand Cru, Les Monts Damnés, boasts the greatest soil in the appellation and catches the eye with gleaming white earth comprised entirely of ancient Kimmeridgian limestone soil. Kimmeridgian soil traverses Chablis in the east, runs through Champagne and Sancerre then ultimately ends up across the channel where it is the source of England’s White Cliffs of Dover. Left behind from ancient sea beds over 150 million years ago, Kimmeridgian limestone offers a distinct, intense minerality that is entirely all its own. It is from this treasured vineyard that famed winemaker, Pascal Cotat, crafts his legendary Sauvignon Blanc from 35-year-old vines. Few vineyards in the world can compete with Les Monts Damnés and even fewer winemakers can rival Pascal’s talent and dedication in the cellar.
Amidst the steep terrain of Les Monts Damnés, and other Sancerre vineyards, the Cotat family has been tending vines since the conclusion of World War II. The Domaine was handed from brothers, Paul and Francis, to their sons, François and Pascal, in the 1990s. The cousins turned the family dynasty into two domaines due to tedious government regulations. Pascal charted the path for Domaine Pascal Cotat in Sancerre and recently built a separate winery. He harvests roughly a week later than most winemakers in the area. As a result, his wines possess a ripeness that lends weight, texture and complexity that is unrivaled in Sancerre. Dedicated to the unique terroir of each site, the Cotats were among the first winemakers to vinify and produce single-vineyard bottlings in Sancerre. Today’s single vineyard, 2014 Les Monts Damnés was a product of an initially difficult vintage that evolved into a long, warm stretch prior to harvest, which lent immense concentration to the grapes and is shaping up to be an age worthy year for Sancerre. This wine was hand harvested then sent through pneumatic press in whole bunches without crushing or destemming. The juice was fermented and aged in neutral barrels that were at least ten years of age, which delivers a wine of pure minerality and brightness. After eight months of maturity, the wine was moved to 600-liter and 300-liter tonneaux, which aided in clarifying the wine. The wine was then bottled without fining or filtration. The result is a superb Sauvignon Blanc with an uncommonly textured mouthfeel, crystalline freshness, laser-focused minerality and lush concentration of fruit.
The 2014 Pascal Cotat “Les Monts Damnés’ Sancerre displays a brilliant straw yellow core with green reflections on the rim. The nose offers aromas of candied lemon, grapefruit zest and passion fruit woven with dried jasmine, wet herbs and oyster shell minerality. The palate charms with flavors of white peach pit, candied citrus zest and lime blossoms and is blessed with precise crushed chalk, brine, balanced acidity and a density that is rare in Sancerre. This concentration and focused minerality is actually reminiscent of serious white Burgundy and will age just as gracefully if kept well. Although it is delightful right this minute, this wine will evolve in a way that almost transcends the varietal. In 4-5 years, layers of depth will evolve to reveal incredible nuttiness and savory characteristics. For instant gratification, decant this wine for one hour and serve at cellar temperature in Burgundy stems. This wine must be served a touch warmer, between 55 and 60 degrees, to experience the immense texture and complexity it has to offer. Pair this beauty with Chavignol’s famous goat cheese, Crottin de Chavignol, over a crisp salad of bitter greens and asparagus for a remarkable pairing. If your local gourmet grocer doesn’t carry it, order on Amazon.
