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Julien Sunier, Fleurie

Beaujolais, France 2014 (750mL)
$33.00
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Julien Sunier, Fleurie


The Cru Beaujolais appellation of Fleurie is a well-known village in Southern Burgundy. Sunier’s prized lieu-dit vineyard, “Niagara,” is a small, 2.4-hectare parcel comprised of 40-year-old vines that grow out of Fleurie’s famous mother rock of granite. The site, framed by forests and meadows, forms a steep, magnificent amphitheatre that demands manual viticulture and harvest. Sunier wouldn’t have it any other way - his vineyards have been farmed organically since the domaine’s inception. Over half of his cultivated holdings have been granted the French equivalent of organic certification, known as, “agriculture biologique,” with the remaining hectares on the way.
 
Julien purchased the land for his estate back in 2005 then opened winery doors in 2008. He is far from a newcomer to the world of wine, however. Originally from Burgundy, Julien worked with winemakers, Nicolas Potel as well as Jean-Claude Rateau, in the Côte-d'Or before venturing over to give Mommessin’s wines a facelift in Beaujolais. During his five-year tenure with the large négociant, he culled an inordinate amount of knowledge about the crus of Beaujolais and what each had to offer in the way of terroir and microclimate. In the end, he chose old-vines in premium sites of Fleurie, Morgon and Régnié to plant roots. Every one of his wines, from every vintage I have tasted, is incredibly compelling.

This particular example is everything a superb Gamay should be —whole clusters are fermented in cold, climate-controlled concrete vats with only indigenous yeast, which results in the exquisite purity of fruit Sunier is known for. Following alcoholic fermentation, the leftover clusters are manually removed, then the wine is racked, without a pump, into an antique wooden basket press. The wine ages on its lees for eleven months in 228-liter, neutral oak barrels, which allows the pure fruit flavors to develop complexity with the overpowering characteristics of new oak. The wine is racked from barrel and blended in tank one month prior to bottling where only incredibly low sulfur levels are used. The result is a pristine example of everything Gamay can achieve. 

The 2014 Fleurie has a dark ruby, red core that moves to a touch of garnet on the rim. The nose offers an incredible display of aromas, which are absolutely full of life. The fragrance of cold bing cherries, freshly picked strawberries and wildflowers fill the glass with incredible purity. The fruit is layered with fresh herbs, grape stems and a light hint of white pepper spice that is balanced by striking hallmark granite minerality that is so unique to the region. The silky palate is medium-bodied with soft yet structured tannins and most perfect fruit imaginable. This wine’s incredible composure is driven by crushed granite and a finish that is flawless and enduring. I recommend drinking this beauty now or within the next three years to experience its peak. When serving with your Thanksgiving feast, please decant an hour prior to serving just above cellar temperature in large burgundy stems. However, please put a few bottles in your cellar as this wine will be divine with 5 or more years of age. This is truly a wine I could drink every day for the rest of my life. Try it and you will undoubtedly see why. Cheers.
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Country
France
Region
Beaujolais
Sub-Region
FranceFleurie (Cru)
Soil
Granite
Farming
Organic
Blend
Gamay
Alcohol
12.5
OAK
Neutral French

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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