Pay attention for one of the most exciting red wine values of the year. Historically, the vast Languedoc-Roussillon area of southern France was referred to as a “wine lake.”
Traditionally this Mediterranean region, stretching from Marseille down to the Spanish border, was a reliable source of ripe and rugged wines from grapes often damned with faint praise as ‘workhorses’: the Grenache family, Cinsault and Carignan, among others. For decades, Carignan has been an often ‘industrial’ varietal, produced in large quantities from machine-farmed vines, with obvious results. However, things have changed; you can now find incredible old vine, organically farmed, biodynamic vineyards producing magical results. Case in point: Jean-Marie Rimbert, who produces this soulful “Le Mas au Schiste, ” one of the best examples I taste every year. From the relatively unknown Saint-Chinian AOC, and sourced from 60 year old Carignan vines blended with Syrah and Grenache, this is, without question, one of the great wine values of France; at this price, you will want to have an endless supply.
Truly, the idea that Languedoc only churns out mass-produced plonk is badly outdated. Today it is a treasure trove, with great, yet undervalued appellations (and grapes) which are only now getting the love and attention they deserve. Carignan, in fact, factors prominently in many of them – Minervois and Faugères in the north, Côtes de Roussillon in the south – but Jean-Marie Rimbert found his preferred soil and climate in Saint-Chinian, yet another northern Languedoc appellation emerging from the shadows with a roar. Situated just north of Minervois, Saint-Chinian’s soils are dominated by schist (a metamorphic rock derived mostly from clay). Cool Mediterranean breezes blow in from the coastal south, keeping the climate moderate; this maintains a fresh acidity, which balances the ripe fruit flavors achieved from the abundance of sun. Here, Rimbert says, Carignan expresses itself in a beautifully finessed form – closely resembling certain expressions of Pinot Noir.
All of Rimbert’s wines begin with Carignan; other varietals are then blended in for structure and complexity. Having made a name for himself as Vineyard Manager at Château de Flaugergues, it didn’t take this young, innovative winemaker long to purchase his own vineyard parcels. His first acquisition was a stunning plot of old vine Carignan within Saint-Chinian. Still working this vineyard today, along with a diverse collection of other parcels, Rimbert has steadily and reliably been crafting incredible wines from his Saint-Chinian holdings.
The 2014 “Le Mas Au Schiste,” as its name suggests, is planted in flaky schist with a clay subsoil. Rimbert works his vines without use of herbicides or pesticides, and then ferments the wines with strictly native yeasts and little filtration before bottling. This particular wine sees up to a year of aging in old Burgundian barrels, and the result is a phenomenal, expressive red wine with serious energy. About 40% Carignan with the balance to Syrah and Grenache, Le Mas au Schiste offers a tasting experience something like a higher toned Châteauneuf-du-Pape meeting the elegance of a ripe Burgundy; but, at $22 a bottle, it costs a mere fraction of either.
In the glass, the dark ruby core moves to garnet and pink reflections on the rim. Incredibly lively and teeming with energy, the aromatics boast beautifully complex and ripe fresh fruit aromas of blackberry, black plum, wild raspberries, cassis, fresh red and purple flowers, dried orange peel, licorice, crushed black rocks and a touch of exotic baking spice. The palate is full bodied and layered with dense, ripe, wild fruit flavors similar to the nose, but quickly moves into beautiful, crushed rock minerality with an endless finish packed with perfectly balanced fruit. This wine’s richness and ripeness owes to an abundance of Mediterranean sunshine, so serving temperature is critical maintaining balance here. I recommend serving just above cellar temp in large Bordeaux or Burgundy stems – both work well. Ideally, the wine should be enjoyed at 65 degrees maximum; I personally prefer it a touch cooler myself. If you serve it at room temp (roughly 72-75 degrees), the alcohol emerges in place of the fruit, and the aromatic balance will be slightly affected (if you don’t have a wine cellar, put the bottle in the freezer for eight to ten minutes before serving, and then let it warm in the glass few a few minutes—that will do the trick). If you’re looking for a great pairing, try cooking up
this classic beef daube recipe.
