A bird’s eye view reveals a patchwork quilt of vineyards dotted across undulating hills amidst twisted olive groves, ancient villas and the medieval village of Montalcino at an 1850-foot precipice. It is here that in the Brunello di Montalcino appellation Rosso di Montalcino is crafted from the same delineation. Derived from 100% Sangiovese, the Rosso only requires a minimum of one year of age, six months of which is required in barrel. Conversely, Brunello is governed by tremendously strict aging requirements that include a minimum of two years in barrel and four months in bottle (only sold 5 years after the year of the harvest). Needless to say, this Rosso is brilliantly designed for early consumption and can be fetched for a true bargain while you are waiting for your serious Brunello to age. Nevertheless, this particular Rosso possesses the structure to age gracefully in your cellar and should peak in another 2-3 years.
Most small production wines, like today’s Abbadia Ardenga, never reach our shores. Luckily, a friend of mine recently began importing this beauty directly from the estate after an inspired meeting with the family last year. The quality inside this bottle is incredible—no doubt a result of timeless tradition, clean farming practices and the inimitable Montalcino terroir. Abbadia Ardenga’s vineyards are perched atop the Montalcino hillside, just above the ancient stone village, facing a southwestern exposure. The soils boast a classic mix of Galestro, clay and limestone, which is responsible for the distinct minerality found in the glass. Farming practices, although uncertified, are entirely organic and biodynamic, which translates into pristine fruit and pure terroir with every sip. While current manager, Paolo Ciacci, has held steadfast to traditional Italian viticulture and winemaking, he has embraced modern equipment necessary to clean winemaking. Ciacci hand-harvest the fruit, ferments in climate-controlled stainless then ages the wine in neutral Slavonian oak barrels before finishing again in stainless. The result is a fresh, structured wine that is reminiscent of Burgundy’s finesse with the classic attributes of Sangiovese when nourished in the celebrated Montalcino soils.
The 2012 Abbadia Ardenga Rosso di Montalcino has a bright garnet red core with garnet and orange reflections on the rim. The fresh, vibrant nose reveals aromatics of redcurrant, sour cherry and red plum along with layers of black tea, orange pith, tomato leaf, fresh leather and crushed stones. The medium-bodied palate is poised and bright with high acidity, which is elevated by layers of dried orange peel, sour cherry, plums and persistent earthy characteristics that are driven by distinct minerality. This wine really needs air; within roughly 45 minutes, something magical happens to and a fresh, elegant glass of pure silk is revealed. After the 45-minute decant, serve in Bordeaux stems at around 65 degrees. Please do not drink this wine before it gets plenty of air. This wine performs at its best with food, as with all Italian wines… For an outstanding pairing, try
this duck ragu over pappardelle.
