The Veneto is a wine region that encompasses not only Amarone’s Valpolicella but also Prosecco, Soave, Bardolino and numerous others. Valpolicella DOC, for those of you unfamiliar with the appellation, is nestled just northwest of the ancient city of Verona towards Lake Garda and less than two hours from the canals of Venice. The stunning, lush valley of Valpolicella is comprised of small terraces that are bolstered by ancient rock walls called, “marogne.” It is here that some of Italy’s most prized and labor-intensive wines are produced. Before the grapes are even crushed and the wine is fermented, Amarone’s grapes endure a painstaking process called, “appassimento.” Following harvest, bunches of grapes are arranged in single layers on drying racks inside a fruttaio, or drying room, where they are tended and dehydrated for four months. This leads to an intensely concentrated, inimitable flavor profile, unparalleled density and significantly higher alcohol content due to very high sugar content prior to fermentation, not to mention a hefty price tag thanks to the time and labor involved. Today’s wine is technically a Valpolicella Superiore, which does not require the appassimento process. However, this producer goes above and beyond and actually puts 50% of the grapes go through appassimento for one month, which results in the unique flavor profile and irresistible charm of Amarone without the overwhelming alcohol content, density or $60+ asking price.
Massimago’s beautifully crafted 2011 Profasio is derived from traditional Valpolicella varietals (65% Corvina, 20% Corvinone and 15% Rondinella) grown over ten hectares that rest 150-300 meters above sea level in limestone, marl and clay soils. Following appassimento, the grapes undergo cold maceration for four days. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged in French oak for twelve months then is cellared in bottle for an additional six months prior to release. Although this wine is considered a Valpolicella Superiore DOC wine, it pushes the envelope of quality with regard to aging time, use of French oak and the partial implementation of the drying process. This inevitably over-delivers a wine of immense character that lacks the innately overbearing nature of its older brother at a mere fraction of the price.
This Valpolicella Superiore displays a dark crimson red core with slight garnet and orange reflections on the rim. The nose is fruit-driven by ample wild dried strawberry along with dried huckleberry, preserved plum and black cherry and is beautifully interlaced with aromas of rose petal candy, a vibrant component of wild florals, leather and a touch of crushed stones, The palate is medium-plus in body, dry with a fresh, richness of fruit that is reminiscent of a well-balanced Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The palate delivers incredibly concentrated fruit that mirrors the nose with dominant wild strawberry over secondary wildflowers and wild herbs with an elegance, roundness and a silky mouthfeel that will keep you refilling your glass all evening and wishing you had purchased an entire case. For a dish that hails from the Veneto, try
this recipe for milk braised pork.
