The small village of Rully is nestled amidst ancient architecture and rolling French countryside in the Côte Chalonnaise, which is located about ten minutes south of the famed village of Puligny-Montrachet. This expressive Chardonnay hails from the Premier Cru “Raclot,” which boasts thirty to forty-year-old vines as well as an ideal location west of Rully on an upslope where it enjoys one of the highest altitudes of village’s most treasured parcels. This wine is labeled as “Céline et Vincent Dureuil-Janthial” as opposed to “Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial” because the grapes are purchased from his neighbor, hence the loss of the use of the term Domaine. However, the dedication to biodynamic and organic farming is applied here as well as in Vincent’s own properties. Here, in this off-the-beaten path village, additional exposure to gusty winds often pushes harvest back and delivers a beautifully textured wine with balanced acidity that we yearn for in the great sites of the Côte de Beaune at one of the best values in the region.

With a family lineage that reaches back to the 13th century, this producer combines modern science with time-tested tradition and simply refuses to cut corners. In the thoughtful and meticulous hands of Vincent Dureuil these Côte Chalonnaise wines spring to life thanks to his dedication to organic and biodynamic farming. Commitment to growing the purest fruit in the vineyard inevitably delivers thriving, healthy vines that produce pristine, rich yet balanced Chardonnay that pulsates with life and conveys its distinct terroir. After manual harvest, the fruit  is pressed directly and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged for one year in 25% new French oak. I’ve tasted countless white Burgundies from the Côte Chalonnaise over the years and the result of this bottling delivered my first show-stopping experience from the appellation. Earlier in the year, at a famous Parisian wine bar in Hong Kong, the owner gave me a bottle of this and it was truly mesmerizing. The purity of the biodynamic vines and winemaking translates in the glass to deliver everything I want in a fine white Burgundy for a fraction of the price.

This 2013 Rully Raclot Premier Cru exhibits a bright straw yellow core that moves to green and gold reflections on the rim. The beautifully balanced nose is dominated by lime and lemon blossom, salted meyer lemon, green and yellow apple and a touch of yellow plum over finely crushed limestone and oyster shell, a touch of beeswax, fresh acacia and white flowers as well as freshly cut herbs. The medium-bodied palate boasts a slightly oily texture coupled with focused flavors and is driven by pristine minerality. The palate mirrors the nose with endless layers of fruit, white rocks and subtle baking spices on the finish. If drinking this wine in its youth, please pamper it with air. Serve after 45-60 minutes in a decanter at around 55 degrees in Burgundy stems. This wine is delicious now although its real beauty will emerge in 3-5 years and should be at its most profound between 2020 and 2025 if kept somewhere cold and dark. For a lovely pairing, try this cod prepared in parchment with miso butter.