Domaine de l’Ecu’s Guy Bossard, considered an innovator in biodynamic viticulture today, was something of an oddity when he swore off chemicals, fertilizers and herbicides back in the early 1970s. At the time, many vignerons were industrializing their vineyards in an effort to modernize and increase productivity and he blazed a trail in the opposite direction which clearly brought life into the region’s wines. His vineyards have been certified organic since the 1975 and certified biodynamic since 1998. Over the years, this dedication to the ecosystem of his vineyards has paid off in spades and his captivating wines speak for themselves. Around 2009, Guy, in an attempt to find a successor, forged a thriving working relationship with Fred Niger Van Herk. Fred shares Guy’s passion for terroir-driven wines as well as the harmony and natural balance of the land. Although Guy is still very much a part of the Domaine, the future of the estate now looks bright and secure with Fred aboard to continue such an incredible legacy.

Their joint dedication to biodynamics and the natural health of the vineyards translates into a purity and living quality in their wines that are held in the highest regard by anyone in touch with the French wine scene The southeast-facing terroir of gneiss and orthogneiss soils gives a unique quality to this Pinot Noir vineyard that is meticulously maintained at incredibly low yields, which results in ample concentration. During crush, the wine is gravity fed without the use of pumps then is destemmed before it undergoes a short ten-day maceration. This wine is fermented with 100% native yeasts then aged in amphorae and old French oak for ten months. This wine is bottled without fining, filtration or the sulfur, which is quite rare. This 2014 Ange is made completely naturally with 100% biodynamic viticulture and without any artificial interference in the cellar; the result of which is truly one of the purest, perfumed and energetic wines you may ever encounter. You might see this wine is labeled as “Vin de France,” and not by an specific appellation (AOC), simply because Pinot Noir is not approved in the region hence the classification.

This 2014 Ange displays a vibrant, highly reflective, bright ruby hue with pink and garnet reflections on the rim. As a result of the biodynamic viticulture and omission of sulfur on this wine, the absolutely glorious aromas are teeming with life. The nose boasts delightful aromas of the soil in which it grows, which is in essence decomposed Granite, behind this are intense notes of wild strawberry and cherry blossoms over a bouquet of fresh red, pink and purple flowers that evolve into savory nuances of white tea, forest floor and crushed stones. The palate is medium-plus in body and delivers a rich and round mouthfeel with immense concentration. The fruit on the palate confirms the nose with additional flavors of myriad wild berries, red plums mushrooms, moss and dew-kissed flowers with the heavy influence of Granite on the finish. Anyone who claims minerality does not exist in wine would be quickly silenced by the transparency that exists in the glass. Pinot Noir is not often grown on this type of soil and it is incredible to experience how the terroir translates into the glass. This wine is a beauty now and will keep be wonderful after two years of age. However, due to the exclusion of sulfur, it is crucial that this wine be maintained at cellar temperature while aging. An absolute joy to consume and a true rarity in the United States, this western Loire Valley Pinot Noir is one of the most beautiful examples to ever be found outside of the varietal’s native Burgundy.

I must stress this wine is very young and I personally would not drink it for another year or two, minimum. I had a bottle the other night and it is incredible, but needs to calm down with a touch of cellar time. This wine just arrived and if you are lucky to get a few bottles please let them rest at least till the end of winter. If you can’t keep your hands off, decant for 2 hours, then serve at cellar temp in large Burgundy stems. This wine needs air as there is a touch of carbon dioxide protecting the wine from oxidation in place of sulphur, this will quickly dissipate. For a perfect pairing, make this Whole Roasted Duck with Plums. All of the flavors will be in perfect balance.