Pessac-Léognan delivers the greatest red wines in Graves and was once actually labeled under the Graves appellation. Since 1987, however, Pessac-Léognan has been an appellation in and of itself thanks to its specific aromatic profile of earthy distinction and the high quality wines the joint communes deliver vintage after vintage. The appellation is situated just a short drive south of the Médoc’s southernmost appellation, Margaux, on the left bank of the River Garonne. The wines of this terroir have a special history. Before the Dutch drained the area, which inevitably led to cultivation, the terroir of Pessac-Léognan was providing British royals with their beloved Claret as early as the 1150s. Today’s example, the stunning second wine of Château de France, offers the textbook profile of classic Pessac-Léognan at a fraction of the price its celebrity neighbors command.
Bernard Thomassin purchased the 17th century Château de France estate back in 1971, before Pessac-Léognan was its own appellation. He immediately replanted the vineyards, modernized the ancient cellar while retaining its vaulted ceilings and charm and inevitably returned the storied estate to its former glory. By 1996, his passionate and capable son, Arnaud, after obtaining a degree in enology and viticulture, joined him in the family business. Arnaud now astutely runs the estate with the help of the uber-famous consultant, Michel Rolland. Château Coquillas, named for the fossilized seashells found in many of its parcels, is considered Château de France’s second wine and delivers one of the greatest values in the appellation year after year. This 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 56% Merlot blend is hand-harvested from younger vines rooted in deep gravelly soil with chalky clay subsoil. After strict sorting, the wine undergoes 7-10 days of alcoholic fermentation, 2 more weeks of extended maceration, then undergoes malolactic fermentation in large temperature-controlled vats. The result is a classic and transparent example of left bank Bordeaux with ample of evidence of Pessac-Léognan’s terroir.
The 2012 Chateau Coquillas displays a very dark garnet core moving to slight garnet and orange reflections on the rim. The nose exudes aromas of black and red currants, black plum, but the wine is driven by earthy notes of dried violets, dried tobacco leaf, pencil lead, cedar and wet gravel. The palate is medium-plus in body alongside well-managed tannins. The thirst-quenching freshness is elevated by beautifully concentrated umami and earth-driven flavors, subtle baking spices, wet gravel minerality and a touch of black fruits that fill in the gaps with seamless precision. This is absolutely delicious at this very moment but will age gracefully over the next five to ten years, most likely peaking between its fifth and eighth birthday. If drinking now, simply decant for thirty minutes and serve just above cellar temperature at 60-65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. Although this wine is lovely on its own, it is best suited to a meal. You cannot go wrong with a simple dish of high-quality steak, potatoes and sautéed mushrooms on a crisp fall night.