The 2009 vintage was a near perfect year in the Loire Valley, and when you couple that with a passionate winemaker who insists on farming organically and biodynamically, the end result is often wine quality of immense quality. Philippe Gourdon is a pioneer in his region and has been a part of the biodynamic movement since the 1990s. In the vineyards, his mission has always been to promote as much biodiversity as possible, to let the vines flourish in their natural element. This, he insists, inherently keeps pests away from the vines. No plowing, no chemicals, no weed killers and no pesticides or herbicides are used at all. In fact, he doesn’t even trim the vines during the growing season; he lets them grow and proliferate in their own natural way. Preserving the integrity of the vines in this manner, Gourdon believes, makes it possible for him to also maintain a hands-off approach in the cellar. No fancy equipment is used and no yeast is added—just pure, simple, traditional winemaking so that the terroir has room to shine. These natural practices have allowed Gourdon to produce what is likely the most natural Chenin Blanc that Le Puy Notre Dame has even seen. Because the wine is so natural, the appellation doesn’t even allow Gourdon to label his wines with the region’s name anymore (it is labeled Vin de France). But trust us, having the appellation status is of no concern for a wine like this—what’s in the glass speaks for itself. This 2009 Les Fontanelles is likely the best Chenin Blanc you will ever taste from this appellation.