By law Cava can be produced in several Spanish wine regions, but the town in which Mata I Coloma is located, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, is the birthplace of Cava and is also the source for the highest quality wines. Today, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia remains the heart of Cava country with its production dominating 95% of the surrounding area. Pere Mata has chosen to grow only the traditional varietals originally grown here: Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. His vineyards are nestled in the rolling hillside landscape of Penedès, about an hour northwest of the architectural wonders and culinary delights of Barcelona. The soils in his vineyards are comprised of limestone, sand and clay, which all lend to the pronounced minerality in Pere Mata’s wines. 

Cava has been a part of the Mata family for generations and now Pere Mata guides this legacy with passionate respect for the land and the traditional farming methods of his ancestors. He farms organically and strives to bring balance into the vineyards by working with only the tools of nature. When drinking Pere Mata’s wines, it is apparent that he has been greatly inspired by the Champagnes of France. I have been told that the wines of Jacques Selosse and Cédric Bouchard have offered Pere Mata inspiration and they have clearly set a high bar for him to move towards. This particular release, the 2009 Cuvée Barcelona, is a blend of 50% Macabeo, 30% Xarel-lo and 25% Parellada. Most of the wine goes through primary fermentation in stainless steel, but 15% of the Xarel-lo is fermented in oak barrels.  After primary, the wine is blended and transferred to bottle for secondary fermentation and lees aging.  The Cuvée Barcelona spends an impressive 5 years resting on lees, allowing for the “Gran Reserva Cava” designation.  This extended contact with lees is the secret to many of the world’s most expensive sparkling wines.  It adds richness, depth and texture that can only be achieved with patience.  Beneath the broad texture, this particular Cava retains the purity of its terroir.  This is partly because Pere Mata has chosen to eschew the addition of dosage (sugar). By French and Spanish law this Cava is designated “Brut Nature”, considered by many to be sparkling wine in its purest form.  The final product hearkens to the greatness of Champagne but it possesses its own style.  The grapes, minerality and flavor profile are unique to northeast Spain. The price to quality here is truly unreal. If you love sparkling wine and your heart is in Champagne, you must try this Cava. Pere Mata is one of the great producers of this ancient region, and his wines will redefine it for you.

The 2009 Cuvée Barcelona has a golden straw yellow core that moves to green and yellow reflections on the rim. This Cava possesses a level of aromatic complexity unlike many of its peers. After a few minutes in the glass, the wine opens up and reveals complex aromas of dried yellow apple, dried lemon peel, white mushrooms, croissant dough, beeswax, puréed hazelnuts and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is round and creamy with flavors of brioche, dried yellow apple, crushed nuts and lemon zest with a chalky mineral finish. Temperature and glassware are both key for allowing the personality of this wine to shine; I recommend enjoying this wine just under cellar temperature (about 50F) in an all-purpose white wine stem. Do not serve this beauty in a traditional Champagne flute or the aromas will be subdued. Time is also important; take it slow with this one or open it early as it gets better and better for hours. If you’re taking this wine out of the refrigerator pull the cork and let the temp rise for 20 minutes prior to serving. As I have recommended with other wines from this producer, this Cava will prove delightful with any dish that boasts shellfish, I believe this bottle deserves the mouth-watering, somewhat labor-intensive Spanish dish, Paella! Check out this incredibly authentic recipe here.