You’ve likely noticed that critics, wine enthusiasts and sommeliers alike have been raving about Montalcino’s near perfect 2010 vintage. These wines were only recently released over the last 6 months (as allowed by appellation law), just over 4 years (50 months) from the original harvest date. Many of these small production wines never make it to the United States, but lucky for us, I have a friend who recently imported this beauty directly from Abbadia Ardenga after meeting the family in Tuscany last year. The quality inside this bottle is incredible—no doubt a result of timeless tradition, clean farming practices and the premium Montalcino terroir. Abbadia Ardenga’s vineyards sit atop the hillside of Montalcino, just above the ancient stone village, facing a southwestern exposure. Two small vineyards are harvested for this bottling, with vine age ranging from 20-50 years old. A classic mix of Galestro, clay and limestone makes up the vineyards’ soils and organic and biodynamic practices (uncertified) keep the vineyards healthy, translating the terroir to the glass. While current manager, Paolo Ciacci, has held steadfast to natural farming and traditional Italian winemaking, he has embraced some modern equipment to ensure the quality of his wines. Ciacci handpicks the grapes, ferments them in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, and then ages the final wines in neutral Slavonian oak barrels for 3 years, then again in stainless steel for an additional year. Finally, the wine is aged in bottle for one year before being released.
The 2010 Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino has a concentrated garnet red core that moves to orange reflection on the rim. The aromatics are perfumed and floral, driven by organic notes of rose petals, red and black plums, wild berries, dried orange peel, fennel, dried clay, dried tobacco, leather, mushrooms, and a touch of asian spice that perfectly hovers in the background. The palate is round with a beautiful, velvet-like texture, full of flavors similar to nose with plums, black cherry, orange peel, cedar, tobacco and dried earth notes. This wine is approachable and delicious right now, but will handle another decade in the cellar if kept well—it will be outstanding for many years to come. I would recommend enjoying a bottle now and cellaring a few for future consumption; it will gain more complexity and should peak in about 5-6 years. When drinking now, decant for 45 minutes and serve in large Bordeaux stems, however, Burgundy stems would also work well because of the wine’s complex floral qualities. If looking for something to serve with this wine, prepare
this Bistecca Alla Fiorentina recipe. There isn’t a more classic pairing in the region.
