The expansive Loire Valley boasts a seriously diverse terrain that produces a vast amount of grape varieties. There are four subregions, which are listed from west to east: the Pays Nantais, known for unrivaled Muscadet; Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, both known for world-class Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc; and finally, Central Vineyards, where the most classic examples of Sauvignon Blanc are found. Today’s wine, made from Melon de Bourgogne, also known as Muscadet, originates from Pays Nantais. Nestled alongside the Atlantic, this is the westernmost subregion of the Loire; consequently, these wines boast fresh acidity, excellent minerality and a touch of salinity. Without a doubt, Sèvre-et-Maine, named after the two rivers that converge here, is the most important appellation in Pays Nantais for the Muscadet varietal. I love today’s offer because as Muscadet ages, there is a complexity that develops in such a timeless way that it leaves the palate incredibly clean and more intricate with each passing year and today’s offer is without exception.

Situated in the unrivaled appellation of Sèvre-et-Maine, Château de la Morandière has a 35–year-old winemaker, Alexandre Déramé, who is not only a third-generation vigneron, he’s like a confident, yet humble wine auteur. He oversees virtually all aspects of the vineyard and the cellar with a keen focus on every meticulous detail. The Vieille Vignes Estate in La Roches Gaudinières, from which this wine is sourced, is known for its high concentration of “Gabbro,” a metallic, hard volcanic rock mixed with silex and quartz. This specialized soil, coupled with organic viticulture, gives life to vines that are over eighty years old. Déramé is one of only fifteen producers in the appellation that farm organically. Further, he is known for maintaining one of the lowest yields in all of Pays Nantais, which pays dividends in the incredible concentration in his wines. Hand harvesting and hand sorting are also compulsory at Château de la Morandiere. Following harvest, the wine is aged sur lie for a staggering twenty-four months in cement tank then racked into stainless and aged for an additional year before bottling. The finished wine, showing the beauty of its age, possesses a soft texture laced with refined and focused minerality, crisp acidity and the perfect balance.