The appellation of Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the legendary hill; this sacred spot earned its name in the 13th century when an injured knight returned from the Crusades. The Queen gave him permission to build a small home, or Hermitage, for his recovery at the top of the hill and he lived in seclusion there as a hermit for many years. Today, the most revered and costly wines of the Northern Rhône hail from this hallowed ground. Just below, Crozes-Hermitage offers greater acreage and lower prices than its big brother; however, the range in quality can vary greatly. Although many of Crozes-Hermitage wines can be found wanting, when gifted producers with a deft hand join forces with superb niche parcels, the results are incredibly satisfying at a remarkable price to quality. Such is the case with Domaine Combier’s “Clos des Grives.”

 

Domaine Combier actually finds it roots in the orchard business. Maurice Combier, known locally as Maurice le Fou, or “Crazy Maurice,” was one of the first in the Rhône to work the land organically starting back in the 1970s. It was actually Maurice’s son, Laurent that brought winemaking into the family business. He studied viticulture and agriculture and worked for domaines in Chateauneuf-du-Pape as well as at the famous Domaine Ott in Provence before returning home to establish their own winery and their own brand of fruit, which is also sold widely throughout France. Over the years Domaine Combier has grown to include 20 hectares of vines, but the work is still done by hand, organically and with an eye toward quality.

Their Clos des Grives vineyard site, measuring 4 ½ hectares enclosed by hedge and boasting soil of red clay, chalk and alluvial stones, was planted back in 1954. The yields are low and produce incredibly concentrated fruit. The wine is aged in 25% new French Oak, the remaining is one to two years old. “I search for purity of fruit,” Laurent Combier explains, and this wine delivers that in spades. It is a rare treat to find Northern Rhône Syrah of this quality, especially with Crozes on the label. Last Friday night, I opened a bottle with a group of industry friends and it was a showstopper. Our noses hovered over the glass throughout the evening as we pondered the almost indescribably complex nose.

 

The wine exhibits a dark purple core with magenta reflections on the rim as the wine is still reveling in its childhood. The incredibly concentrated aromatics boast ripe black and purple fruits including boysenberries, blackberries, blackcurrants and plums that are woven into fresh violets, fresh-cracked black pepper, finely crushed black rocks and a touch of meat. The palate opens up with luscious, wild black and purple fruit then gives rise to lavender, lingering spicy earth and herbes de Provence and is driven by focused crushed rock minerality. Although this wine is currently entertaining and tantalizing upon opening, it is going to inevitably be one of the most charmed holdings in your cellar within 5-7 years. If you’re a serious collector, this is a wine to buy by the case. Drink one now and hide the rest away; you’ll be thankful you did. If you’re enjoying a bottle now, decant for 2-3 hours or just open in your cellar the day prior to serving. Make sure to forget about some of this wine in your cellar. It has the stuffing of great Hermitage and I wouldn’t be surprised to find it peaking in twenty years under the proper storage conditions. For immediate gratification, try it with this amazing Pakistani slow-cooked lamb.