Montecucco was granted denomination status in 1998, and while the region is well known in Italy, it hasn’t seen the same recognition internationally—until recently. In the last decade, quality and production has skyrocketed in Montecucco and true wine geeks are now clamoring for these wines. Why all of a sudden, you may ask, are the wines of Montecucco now being recognized? Local growers are tending to their vineyards organically, working largely with native grape varieties, and focusing production on wines with terroir-driven characteristics rather than implementing far too many cellar techniques to manipulate the flavors. The wines of this region are pure, concentrated and honest—everything I look for in great wine.
The Montecucco Rosso Riserva bottling from Colle Massari consistently receives ‘tre bicchieri’ from Gambero Rosso; ‘tre bicchieri’ translates from Italian to ‘three glasses,’ and is the highest award of excellence that Gambero Rosso gives to a wine. Planted in a mix of tufaceous clay, calcareous marl and alluvial stones at roughly 1,000 foot elevation, these vines produce incredible fruit with serious concentration. Aging for eighteen months in vats, barrique and tonneaux, plus another year in bottle, the 2012 Montecucco Rosso Rivera boasts refined elegance, wonderful structure and impressive concentration. This wine is serious and the price is well under what it should be.
The 2012 Montecucco Rosso Riserva has an incredibly reflective and polished color—a near-opaque dark ruby core that moves to garnet and orange reflections on the rim. Right away, the level of concentration tells you this wine is going to be powerful. The aromas are clean and concentrated with layers of wild berry fruit, red plum, red and black currant, orange zest and sour cherry; further savory notes of dried roses, wild herbs, fresh leather, sandalwood, tobacco leaf, dried clay, tomato leaf and a touch of white pepper hover above the glass in harmony. The palate is incredibly round and polished with beautiful concentration of fruit that is not often seen in the region’s wines; the flavors mimic the nose with juicy, ripe fruit, and the finish is long with notes of dried rose petals, crushed earth and a myriad of ripe fruits. This wine is incredible right now, but will easily age for another decade. I suggest drinking one now and then putting several bottles away in the cellar so you can taste its evolution over the next several years… the wine will most likely peak in 3-4 years. For a decadent evening, pair the 2012 Montecucco Rosso with
this delectable Tuscan braised pork belly.
