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Julien Sunier, Fleurie

Beaujolais, France 2013 (750mL)
$34.00
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Julien Sunier, Fleurie


Fleurie is a well known village in Southern Burgundy. Sunier’s 2.4 hectares of 40-year-old vines, nestled in Fleurie’s mother rock of granite, are derived from a prized lieu-dit vineyard called, “Niagara.” The site, framed by forests and meadows, forms a steep, magnificent amphitheatre that demands manual viticulture and harvest. Luckily, Sunier is up to the challenge. His vineyards have been farmed organically since the Domaine’s birth and over half of the cultivated holdings have already been granted the French equivalent of organic known as, “agriculture biologique,” with the remaining hectares on the way.
 
Julien bought the initial land for his winery’s estate back in 2005 and opened the winery in 2008, but he’s far from a newcomer to the world of wine. Originally from Burgundy, Julien worked with winemakers Nicolas Potel as well as Jean-Claude Rateau in the Côte-d'Or before venturing over to give Mommessin’s wines a facelift in Beaujolais. During his five-year tenure with the large négociant, he culled an inordinate amount of knowledge about the crus of Beaujolais and what each had to offer by way of terroir and microclimate. In the end, he chose old-vines in premium sites of Fleurie, Morgon and Régnié. Every one of his wines, from every vintage I have tasted, is incredibly compelling.

Today’s particular wine is everything a magnificent Gamay should be. Whole clusters are fermented using only indigenous yeast and kept at low temperatures in concrete vats, which results in the exquisite purity of fruit Sunier is known for. Once alcoholic fermentation is complete, the leftover clusters are removed manually then the wine is drained, without a pump, into an antique wooden basket press. The wine is then  transferred into 228-liter, neutral oak barrels for eleven months to age on its lees, which allows the pure fruit flavors to develop complexity. The wine is racked from barrel and blended in tank one month prior to bottling where only low sulfur levels are used. This particular wine comes to us from the spectacular 2013 vintage. The perfectly ripe, incredible concentration of fruit was a result of a vintage that shattered a twenty-plus year record for sunshine days in Beaujolais. 

The ruby red core on this wine is reminiscent of a finely polished gem of exquisite clarity. The nose offers aromas of freshly picked strawberries and raspberries alongside black cherries and pomegranates. The pure bounty of fruit is layered with fresh herbs, grape stems and a light hint of white pepper spice that is balanced by striking hallmark granite minerality so unique to this region’s wine. The silky palate is medium-bodied with seamless tannins, the most perfect fruit imaginable and incredible composure that is driven by crushed granite and a finish that is flawless and lengthy. I would recommend drinking this beauty now or within the next three years to experience its peak. However, put a few away to age as well since these wines are divine with five-to-seven years of age. This is truly a wine I could drink every day for the rest of my life. Try it and you will undoubtedly see why. Cheers.
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Country
France
Region
Beaujolais
Sub-Region
FranceFleurie (Cru)
Soil
Granite
Farming
Organic
Blend
Gamay
Alcohol
12.5
OAK
Neutral French

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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