I have been tasting the wines of this producer for a few years now and this is one of the best bottlings I have had yet. This bottle is a truly outstanding example of how impressive Champagne can be when produced from smaller vineyard parcels and farmed in superb terroir. Furthermore, when the vines are farmed biodynamically, the true potential of the vineyard site can be fully realized in the bottle; the liveliness, sense of character, and seriously pure nature of this sparkler is without a doubt a result of the Fleury family’s dedication to biodynamic farming. In fact, word has it they were the first producer in all of Champagne to introduce fully biodynamic farming into their vineyards. Since then, they have become a beacon of light in a land where the vast majority of large vineyard parcels are subjected to harsh fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. So much so, that other local producers have followed suit and begun farming biodynamically in their own vineyards. The difference in the final product is like the difference between life and death. I have come to believe when producers stop introducing man-made chemicals into the vines, that the vine can live at its peak and reveal its true potential.
This small estate first began growing grapes over a century ago, in 1895; at that time, they were only selling their grapes to Champagne producers throughout the region. In 1929, second generation winemaker Robert Fleury decided to turn the estate into a Récoltant-Manipulant—also known as Grower Champagne House—where the estate grows their own fruit, harvest, ferments and then ages the Champagne for their own production. Ever since, the Fleury family has handcrafted captivating bubbly from vineyards planted in incredible terroir. Today, the third and fourth generation of the family work together in the vineyards and cellar. Father Jean-Pierre, who first initiated the biodynamic farming back in the late 1980s, welcomed his son Jean-Sébastien into the family business in 2009. Their estate, in the village of Courteron, is planted to majority Pinot Noir vines (90%), followed by Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. The terroir of these vineyards is magnificent—clay and limestone soils provide both texture and minerality, decent elevation of 1,100 feet helps retain acidity, and the south/southeastern sun exposure provides ample sunlight for the vines. The small parcels of sloping vineyards are alive with the energy of the earth, producing small yields of sensational grapes. The final varietal blend for the Brut Fleur de L’Europe NV is 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay; roughly eight grams of sugar per liter are added after disgorgement. I know you will love the way the biodynamic farming has allowed this Champagne to express itself purely and beautifully in the glass.
This Champagne has a golden yellow core moving to green and gold reflections on the rim. The aromas are yeasty and rich, driven by notes of yellow apple, dried honey, brioche, lemon cream, mushrooms, white flowers and crushed chalk. The palate is dense, creamy and round with perfect balance. This wine needs air to express itself; ideally serve in all purpose white wine stems or large mouthed Champagne stems at about 45-50 degrees. Stay away from thin, traditional Champagne flutes or the aromas will be lost. After five or so minutes in the glass, the wine begins to blossom and will drink well over the next few hours and become more expressive as the temperature rises a touch. This wine will age incredibly well, so don't be afraid to forget about a few bottles in the cellar. If kept well, in five to seven years, this Champagne will be insane.