I am always anxious to learn if a producer’s son or daughter will carry on winemaking traditions, or take the estate in an entirely new direction. Fortunately, Amaury Beaufort—Jacques’ grandson—is hitting it out of the park at his family’s storied property. The farming is fastidious as always, now certified biodynamic in addition to organic, and the quality of the wines is arguably better than ever. Amaury is adamant about lowering sulfur levels in his wines, so these are some of the most pure and unadulterated Champagnes ever bottled under the Beaufort label. They are a truly wonderful and delicious expression of the southern Champagne terroir. They have significant Pinot Noir holdings in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay, and also farm a mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay an hour and a half south in the village of Polisy—this is where today’s wine originates. Polisy lies just northeast of Chablis and shares the same magical blend of kimmeridgean limestone and clay soil. Polisy is unique in that it is densely forested, whereas most of Champagne has given to deforestation and agriculture for centuries. The natural environment of this region contributes to the complexity of terroir in the glass and the Beaufort family says the nearby forests and diversity of plants, insects and predators provide necessary protection for their vines. This integrated system allows them to maintain their natural farming philosophy that is nearly impossible elsewhere in Champagne. It is no wonder these Champagnes are some of the most pure and invigorating in the region.