For more than two centuries, the Boisson family has been making wine in Meursault, quietly laboring in the vineyards and the cellar, all the while meting out tiny amounts of over-performing, top-notch Burgundies under their various labels. Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father-and-son team Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is laser-focused on realizing the greatest potential in the sites they work. With careful attention in the fields and in the winery, they are beginning to reach cult-like status, even for their lieu-dit bottlings, like this “Grands Charrons.” They’ve been encouraged by, and regularly converse with, other like-minded vignerons, such as Pierre’s childhood friend, Raphael Coche, of Domaine Coche-Dury. 

The Boisson winemaking shows a similar penchant for pristine fruit from old vines and long primary lees aging, but diverges in the oak regimen, preferring no more than a third new barrels for the top wines. Such a light hand in the cellar marries well with the fruit from their plot of Grand Charrons, which is generally the most intense and expressive of the climats they work—to Bernard’s taste it is, “the most Meursault-y.” A deeply powerful and complete wine, it has all the quintessential hallmarks of the village, showing ripe fruits, white flowers, toasted nuts and a whiff of reduction. Rich texture in the mouth, but showing real finesse, and underpinned by integrated, racy acidity, which portends a long life and additional development. A seamless and outstanding bottle from an under-the-radar producer that competes with the heavyweights!