In Master of Wine Clive Coate’s seminal book, “Côte d’Or,” he mentions that the handful of Premier Crus just below Grand Cru Bonnes-Mares are “a fertile hunting ground for the Chambolle lover.” Everyone knows my affinity for the 2014 vintage and this gold nugget of Burgundy—the best have unreplicable polish, perfume, and elegance—so when I was shown Patrice Rion’s “Les Gruenchers,” my heart skipped a few beats.
This is a Premier Cru linked to prestige names like Dujac and Fourrier, but with this singular bottle, Rion has unabashedly squeezed between the two, staking its claim as one of the greats. It’s an extraordinary expression of pure, cellar-worthy Burgundy that has only continued to climb in acclaim and rarity—only 100 cases are produced each year! Patrice Rion has impressively built up his holdings to include some of the finest terroirs in the Côte de Nuits and this 2014 “Les Gruenchers” is among his best. It’s horse-and-plow farmed and classically crafted, ultimately making this $99 gem a brilliant value when compared to the mighty titans it competes with. Our small supply means that we can only offer up to four per person today, so don’t miss this limited, high-flying Pinot Noir. It is impeccable red Burgundy through and through.
The Rion family has become a household name in Burgundy and it’s largely because of current-day owner Patrice Rion. He first gained worldwide acclaim after promoting and subsequently crafting his father’s wines at Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils, which was created in 1955 with just two hectares in Vosne-Romanée. Despite Daniel having three sons, it was Patrice who took the most interest at an early age: Clive Coates also noted in his book that Patrice, at the age of 17, “...decided to put up a notice outside the winery and start selling bottles to passing tourists. In 1973, this was rare in Burgundy.” Starting in the ‘80s, Patrice became the winemaker and public face of the family domaine, and at the turn of the millennium, he and his wife left to expand Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion—an estate Patrice had originally created in 1990. Since then, his new venture has slowly acquired blue-chip Premier Cru parcels and with the help of his son, Maxime, high praise among sommeliers and the press has followed.
The few who have a piece of “Les Gruenchers,” which covers just seven acres in total, count themselves extremely fortunate: those “on the outside looking in” would love a slice of vines located just a few hundred feet from Grand Cru Bonne-Mares. Patrice cherishes what little piece he has by farming without herbicides and following organic practices with the help of his plow horse. And come a harvest, he keeps his handpicked yields incredibly low—more so than many Grand Crus. Grapes are carefully sorted in the winery before fermenting in open-top stainless steel tanks and, after roughly three weeks, the wine is transferred into French oak barrels, approximately 50% new, for 18 months.
Patrice Rion’s 2014 “Les Gruenchers” dances an intense ruby red moving out to a soft pink rim, and it instantly erupts with ultra-fine, high-toned Chambolle notes of ripe black cherries, purple flowers, bilberries, rose petals, red and blue plum, pomegranate, underbrush, fresh herbs, black tea, crushed stone, and delicately woven baking spices. The palate is medium-plus bodied and firmly structured, with velvety tannins and supple fruit mingling with savory earth. This is a powerful Chambolle-Musigny that reveals its seductive side the longer you keep it exposed to air, delivering a typicity that I immediate associate with the classic 2014 vintage. Please note that it is an absolute joy to drink now, but it won’t be taking center stage until 2020. Even if you do show patience by stowing a couple bottles, don’t feel rushed to drink them when 2020 does come along—“Les Gruenchers” will evolve beautifully over the next 15+ years! Now, for that one bottle you’ll inevitably open when it arrives at your door: Decant for a minimum of 60 minutes while consuming over the course of 2-3 hours and pair it with medium-rare
tournedos (a tender cut from the small end of the tenderloin) with
au poivre et champignons (pepper and mushrooms). The French makes it sound fancier than it really is, but however you choose to pronounce it, trust me when I say this will turn your night from good to great. Cheers!
