In the last few decades, many producers in the Southern Rhône stronghold of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have swung for the fences, aiming for unabashedly “modern” styles of wine—but not everyone. Working with just three hectares of vines in Châteauneuf, Jacques Paumel of Château du Mourre du Tendre has never chased the high score.
A fifth-generation vintner, Paumel knows that the later he picks, the bigger and riper his wine will be, but it will also lack acidity and its evolution will be short-lived. I was immediately impressed with Paumel’s restrained, classic, and masterful take on the 2012 vintage—his last bottling before passing the reins to his grandson, Paul Verité. 2012 was a hot year in which producers could have pushed the envelope to make massive wines. But Paumel never took the bait—this is a classic producer and you’ll find it on great wine lists in France and around the country. Burgundy lovers will find Mourre du Tendre’s Grenache-dominant cuvée a bit richer and concentrated courtesy of 70-100-year-old vines, but still displaying Burgundian finesse. This 2012 is an heirloom expression of Châteauneuf, made possible through sustainable farming and whole-cluster fermentation, and now that it has had some time in bottle, the classic aromas of Châteauneuf—wild herbs, lavender, ripe but not stewed fruit—are leaping forth. Today’s “Très Vieilles Vignes” (“very old vines”) offers incredible value as well: You’re simply not going to find another aged CDP at this price that performs at this level!
On a clear day, the jagged Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range is visible from one particular hill in Châteauneuf, known locally as Mourre du Tendre, where today’s château is perched. In 1962, Jacques Paumel and his wife, Josephine, took control of the estate from Jacques' father, but it wasn’t until 1988 that they decided to bottle their own wines, finding inspiration in the name of the hill. The couple still roams the property, often arguing over how much wine they actually have to sell, while their daughter Florence Paumel-Verité, son-in-law Richard Paumeland and their son, Paul Verité, run the day-to-day operations. The family’s vines have weathered many decades—with Grenache first planted in 1929, expanded by 1942 and again in 1967 with some Mourvèdre plantings.
With Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there are certain things of which you can be fairly well assured: Although there are more than a dozen grape varieties authorized for use, Grenache is typically the main driver, and the style is generous, with extracted fruit and distinct southern Rhône warmth; soft tannins; and relatively low acidity. From there, however, between producer and vintage, there are often significant variations.
The 2012 growing season “provided the climatic conditions for ampler, more powerful wines,” writes critic Josh Raynolds of Vinous, and the difference between the making of a classic or a more modern style in 2012 came down to pick dates. A cool spring slowed canopy growth and a bout of coulure (a.k.a. “shatter,” when grape bunches fail to pollinate/develop) reduced yields as much as 40%-60% in some vineyards. A hot summer was capped with some replenishing rains in August, but the early autumn was dry and further refreshed by the mistral winds, resulting in wines of great concentration but also great balance.
One of the finest expressions of the vintage comes from Mourre du Tendre courtesy of vines that are rooted in sandy soils within the lieu-dits (named vineyard sites) of “La Crau,” “La Guigasse,” and “Saintes Vierges.” Minimalist and traditional farming, hand-harvesting of grapes through several passes leads to a lengthy élevage (aging)—roughly three years—as the wine ages in concrete tanks and large oak foudres. When I say this is more a “classic” expression, it’s because the resulting wine is bold but fine, structured more on the scale of a Barbaresco or Chambolle-Musigny. In other words—true Old School Châteauneuf!
Today’s embodies everything I hope to encounter when I open a bottle of Châteauneuf, particularly from extremely old vines. In the glass, it shows a pale, ruby color, a bit darker than Burgundy, but more crimson as opposed to purple. Rather than loads of blackberries and cassis, you have this beautiful red fruit component and delicate cherry woven into black olive notes layered with fennel pollen and slightly dried wildflowers, wild herbs, and fern. Luxurious on the palate with perfectly ripe fruit, lush without being overbearing, it finishes with freshness without heavy-handed sweetness to the fruit. Bottled unfiltered in 2015, I’d recommend a short decant before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. Serving at room temperature is too warm for a wine like this, and the alcohol will dominate the fruit, and will not give you the same tasting experience I’m writing about. If you don’t have a cellar, pull the cork and let it sit for 20-30 mins in the refrigerator until the bottle is cool to the touch. This is a perfect fit for the Thanksgiving table, but drinking the near term I’d serve alongside roast chicken, duck confit, cassoulet, or perfectly cooked ribeye with potatoes.
