From the base of the French Alps hails one of my favorite white wine values of all time. Marc Portaz’s evocative white from Savoie’s distinguished Apremont cru is a stunning value given its quality and rarity: For those seeking an invigorating rush of brisk Alpine air, freshly picked mountain herbs, and a delightful citrus-mineral blend, this hits all the right pleasure points, not least of which is its remarkable price-to-quality.
Now more than ever, Portaz’s 2017 hammers the concept of terroir home in every way, from its label to the cool, energizing liquid inside the bottle—which tastes as if it arrived by way of a mountain stream. Crafted from the Savoie’s native Jacquère grape, a bright and juicy variety that captures every essence of the French Alps, the only fault I can find in this wine is how quickly and easily it disappears on the table. If you love Chablis, Muscadet, Grüner Veltliner, or, really, any mouthwatering white with a real mineral footprint, Portaz’s Apremont must be your next stop. Just make sure to have it in good quantity, because at this price it’s the most refreshing, can’t-say-no wine out there specifically designed to brighten any day. Need a cool down during a hot autumnal afternoon? A wine after a day of skiing? A picnic accompaniment for next spring? Yes to all scenarios. Because we love this wine so much, there’s plenty to go around—so be sure to purchase it by the case!
It’s important to remember that the French concept of terroir that we all hold so dear doesn’t refer solely to the soil in which a vine is grown. Though the word comes from ‘terre’ (French for soil/ground/earth), ‘terroir’ nevertheless refers to the “total natural environment” of a vine—soil, yes, but also microclimate, altitude, aspect of the vineyard, and other factors.
Marc Portaz farms 10 hectares of vines in Apremont, which is one of Savoie’s designated ‘crus,’ named for the village it surrounds. Located at the base of the 2300 foot sheer face of Mont Granier in the Chartreuse Mountains (part of the greater Alps), the east-facing Apremont offers great sun exposure while being sheltered from inclement weather. The massive precipice that towers above Apremont was formed all the way back in 1248, when a titanic-like limestone mass slid off its marl base and toppled into the fields at the foot of the mountain. Full of glacial moraines—soils that have been deposited by glaciers—and cretaceous fossils imprinted in limestone, this devastating landslide formed what now is the mineral-rich soil for Apremont (which translates to “bitter mountain,” a reference to the natural tragedy from centuries ago).
After learning the ins and outs of winemaking through his studies in Dijon and internships in California and New Zealand, Portaz returned to the remote Savoie to craft wonderful wines from Jacquère. His small acreage is planted to vines with an average age of 40 years and farmed sustainably without the use of pesticides. The old-vine grapes are always harvested by hand and whole-pressed prior to an indigenous yeast fermentation. The wine then briefly rests on its lees (the spent yeast cells left after fermentation) in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks. The result is a mix of lip-smacking freshness, a touch of creaminess, and a wonderful cooling sensation.
Portaz’s 2017 displays a bright straw-yellow core with slight green and silver reflections moving out to a limpid rim. The clean, ultra-pure nose evokes a sensory experience similar to riding a ski lift up France’s lofty Alps: crushed stones, cool mountain air, river rock, and mountain herbs are present in breathtaking fashion, followed by lemon verbena, lime blossom, honeysuckle, green peach skin, hints of white pepper, honeydew, wildflowers, and citrus fruits muddled in a granite mortar. On the palate, the wine is light yet creamily textured, with intense minerality marking the finish. It is piquant, a natural cleanser, and works wonders as an apéritif or a relaxant after a long day. This is usually at its best when consumed young, so drink through 2020 in all-purpose white stems around 45-50 degrees, or simply pull from your fridge, flash-decant for 15 minutes and enjoy. As we’ve mentioned, and must repeat, this wine deserves the accompaniment of nature itself, so open your bottles outside of the house. Drink it while gardening, on the patio with friends, or let it be part of your ‘solo time’ during the day’s waning hours. My only other advice? The wine disappears incredibly quick so don’t short yourself—you’ll be upset for taking less than six bottles! Again, Marc Portaz’s 2017 Apremont is wonderful as a standalone, but if you’re feeling adventurous, stuff raclette and various herbs into some chicken breasts and you’ve basically created a fine dining experience in the Alps. Cheers!
