If you’ve never heard of Fiesole, or Poggio La Noce, rest assured you won’t forget either after trying today’s wine. Although this beautiful estate just outside Florence has about a decade’s worth of vintages under its belt, it’s nevertheless a “new” wine to us—and a happy discovery to say the least.
While it is grown in a town that falls within the Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG, this 100% Sangiovese, called “Gigino,” has more in common with top-tier Rosso di Montalcino than with the typical Chianti; this is partly because it’s a “varietal” Sangiovese and partly because Montalcino, rightly or wrongly, is more readily associated with this wine’s more polished, modern style. And if you are one of those purists for whom “modern” has become a dirty word, please put that right out of your mind: If it’s wrong for a wine to be clean, concentrated, true to its variety, and touched up with just a kiss (not a face-slap) of oak, I don’t want to be right! This is a modern Tuscan red with one foot firmly rooted in the past, singing the sweet/savory Sangiovese song that is so unique to Tuscany. And as even the Rosso di Montalcino category drifts ever-upward in price, this value-for-dollar is not to be ignored.
Poggio La Noce was founded in 2000 by Claire Beliard and Enzo Schiano, both of whom had worked in the US in various wine capacities before returning to Italy to pursue a dream. They did things the right way from the beginning, establishing organic farming practices in their vineyards and obtaining official certification by 2006. Their original vineyard spanned about six hectares at an elevation of about 300 meters, in soils that closely resemble those of Chianti Classico not far to the south: rocky marls with limestone and sandstone. The town of Fiesole is a historic ‘suburb’ of Florence, nestled in the first rise of hills outside the city to the northeast. It is one of the communes that comprise the “Chianti Colli Fiorentini” (“Florentine Hills of Chianti”) appellation, which extends north from Chianti Classico, encircling Florence and running up to the edge of Chianti Rúfina (another of the seven geographically specific appellations under the “Chianti” umbrella).
“Gigino” is sourced from a 2.5-hectare parcel of Sangiovese situated at about 250 meters’ elevation and facing south/southwest. The fruit for this 2015 was entirely destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. It then aged 20 months in 10-hectoliter oak ‘botti’ for 20 months and 12 more months in bottle before release.
And as you might expect from the warm 2015 vintage, this is a deeply concentrated, silky, and seductive Sangiovese. In the glass, it’s a deep ruby with garnet reflections, with ripe but textbook Tuscan Sangiovese aromas: Whereas a lot of 2015 Chiantis we’ve tasted have been a little overwrought, inky, and atypical, this one leaves no doubt as to what it is. Aromas of black cherry, black and red raspberry, violet, grill char, licorice, tomato leaf, a hint of balsamic, and sandalwood spice carry over to the medium-plus bodied palate. It is buoyant and fresh—no sharpness, but no flab, either—with a fine-grained grip to its tannins. You’ll find it delicious to drink now given some time to open up (30-60 minutes in a decanter should do it) but don’t hesitate to lay a few bottles down for short-term aging, too (5-7 years feels right). Serve it in large Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees and serve it with the kinds of things you’d serve with a top-quality Rosso di Montalcino:
bistecca, of course, or maybe game birds like quail or squab, or maybe a
ragù over
pici pasta. This is real-deal Tuscan red, at a fantastic price, so do yourself a favor and check it out!
