Some secrets are meant to be kept and others are destined to be told. With the arrival of today’s impossible-to-find Château de Cérons, it’s time for me to just come out and say it: Pour ‘89 d’Yquem and ‘89 Cérons next to each other, and my hand is reaching towards the latter. When I tasted it in Bordeaux earlier in the year, its extraordinary levels of complexity, depth, and opulence left me stupefied.
In actuality, it shouldn’t have come as a surprise because (1) 17th-century Château de Cérons is the region’s most prized and hallowed property, (2) their wines are a complete masterclass on the infinite aging properties of botrytized wine, and (3) 1989 was one of those near-mythical vintages that produced wines of magnificent, never-before-seen luxury.
Wine Spectator still rates the vintage at the top of their all-time list, Jancis Robinson called the ‘89s “huge,” “dramatic,” “exciting,” and
Decanter deemed the year perfect, concluding that it was “an excellent vintage of concentration.” The proof is in each sip of Château de Cérons’ magical 1989. It delivers innumerable dimensions of richness, energy, and flat-out style—more so than I’ve ever experienced in a 30-year-old dessert wine, be it Cérons, Barsac, Loupiac, or Sauternes. The best part of it all? Owning this treasure instantly places you in a genuinely rare category because we can’t find anyone else on earth who has this mega-blockbuster vintage in their possession. This special batch has remained untouched in Château de Cérons’ cellar for nearly three decades, so rest assured that you’re one of a few people who have ever come in contact with this extraordinary “liquid-gold” gem. Quantities are painfully limited.
A 400+-year-old manor that oversees the sweeping Garonne River, a formidable stone wall perimeter that’s endured centuries, and a 12th-century, Romanesque church directly across the way: This is the stunningly preternatural property of Château de Cérons, a venerated estate that has dedicated their entire existence to wine production. As of 2012, Xavier and Caroline Perromat are the proud owners of this historic site, having inherited it from Xavier’s parents, Jean—who was the longtime mayor of Cérons proper—and Suzanne.
The estate, of course, takes its name from Cérons, an appellation that encompasses the lower section of Graves. Having earned its title in 1936, Cérons is among the oldest appellations in all of Bordeaux—it even predates Sauternes by a full 10 days! Along with neighboring Barsac and nearby Sauternes, this is largely sweet, botrytized wine territory, although dry wines are made (but must be labeled “Graves”). Within Cérons, there are a handful of properties that one should know, but Château de Cérons is the absolute standout; they are “deserving of the highest praise,” says luminary Stephen Spurrier.
Although 27 hectares are under Xavier and Caroline’s watch, only five are dedicated to their flagship sweet wine, Cérons. In 1989, botrytis was swift and widespread, and by October the grapes were nearly bursting at the seams with intense levels of concentration. After a meticulous, manual sorting in the vineyard, the small percentage of botrytized grapes were pressed ever-so-gently into mostly neutral French barrels. Following fermentation, the wine continued aging in barrel for 18 months. Today’s batch was bottled in ‘91 and remained undisturbed in their cellar until earlier this year. Its residual sugar is around 75 grams per liter—far less than d’Yquem which often surpasses the 140 mark.
For all those looking for a hedonistic experience, there’s certainly no lack of opulence or profundity in this wine. Today’s ‘89 is harmoniously rich, impossibly fresh, and extraordinarily complex. The moment this intensely viscous, dark golden-amber wine falls into the glass, it erupts with intoxicating aromas of acacia honey, yellow flowers, candied orange peel, citrus blossoms, salt-preserved lemon, grilled pineapple, mango, preserved peach, crushed river rock, herbs, caramel, dates, and a touch of exotic spices. It floods your palate with a massive rush of sweet fruit that instantly melds into light-footed savoriness due to 30 years of aging and the impeccable balance of botrytis and acidity. It is one of the most dazzling, multi-dimensional sweet treats I’ve had in years—and yet I still hesitate to call it “sweet.” It is integrated to perfection and can certainly exist as a breathtaking pairing with blue cheese, a main course with foie gras, and as a standalone after dinner. However you use it, just be sure to sit down, relax, and appreciate the deliciously nuanced liquid gold in your glass. It is a remarkable tour de force.
