When I see 1995 Bordeaux, be it on a retail shelf or in a white-tablecloth restaurant, my eyes widen and I reach for my back pocket. For me, this combination of vintage and region has become one of wine’s guaranteed purchases. Bordeaux in peak form is one of the most extraordinary sensory experiences imaginable, and that’s where the 1995s are today. However, there are a few caveats: When it comes to finding these decades-old gems, provenance and producer are absolutely crucial. Château Dassault has both covered.
This Grand Cru Classé property is among the top one percent of Right Bank Bordeaux and today’s ‘95 MAGNUMS rested in Dassault’s dark cellars for 24 years before we disturbed their peace three months ago. For the uninitiated, Saint-Émilion entrances the wine cognoscenti. The cult
châteaux here fetch hundreds, even thousands of dollars in legendary vintages, and you would’ve thought we were drinking one of those labels when I poured Dassault’s ’95 for a number of serious wine collectors. Its mature savor and velvet-gloved class rendered them speechless to the point where I could have sold our entire parcel right then and there. This is as good as ‘90s Right Bank gets, and I guarantee they will sell out quickly!
[*NOTE: Due to the wine’s magnum format, we are unable to offer it for “Build a Case” purchases.]
Though acquired and renamed by the Dassault family in 1955, the origins of this estate couldn’t be more purebred: It was originally founded a hundred years prior by the Fourcauds—the same family who established the Right Bank touchstone Château Cheval-Blanc. Immediately after the acquisition, Marcel Dassault went to work with renovations, from better drainage in the vineyards to aesthetics to equipment upgrades in the cellar. The increase in quality was as dramatic as it was quick, and it soon paid off: In 1969, they were awarded Saint-Émilion’s prestigious Grand Cru Classé ranking, one they’ve proudly held ever since. Today, Laurent, the grandson of Marcel, runs the operations, which have grown substantially over the years. Their holdings now dominate the historic appellation of Saint-Émilion and their perfectly preserved library releases are spectacles to behold. Following their recent partnership with the Rothschild family, I expect Dassault’s stock to continue rising.
In classic fashion, Dassault’s vines are mostly planted to Merlot, followed by the Cabernets. After hand-harvesting their crop in ‘95, separate varietal fermentations were carried out in stainless steel. The resulting wine was subsequently transferred into French barriques (approximately 75% new) for 18 months. Upon bottling in the latter part of 1997, today’s small batch of magnums were laid to rest in their cellar where they remained untouched for 21 years.
Before diving into the tasting notes, I must again reiterate how much love I have for the ‘95 vintage. Whereas the majority of 1980s Bordeaux (excluding the top châteaux, of course) is starting its gradual decline, 1995 from a top estate is right in the middle of its drinking window. At 24 years old, Château Dassault is an elite, classy Right Bank red: savory earth, leather, crushed gravel, dried fruits, florality, and baking spice emerge from the glass with a confident stride. Maturation in magnum has preserved its youthfulness incredibly well, but make no mistake—there are layers of beautifully mature fruit, spice, and savor to be had. As oxygen coaxes out aromas, you’ll discover black cherries, Damson plum, crème de cassis, redcurrant, dried red berries, cedar box, bay leaf, vanilla, and vintage leather. The palate delivers a wine of subtle complexity and polished, fine-grained tannins. What a stunning bottle, and what a presentation, too: For the best experience, use an
ah-so opener to extract the cork and pour into Bordeaux stems around 60-65 degrees. I would recommend allowing the wine to rest in your glass for about 15-30 minutes before savoring slowly, over the course of an evening. For those keen buyers who purchase more than one magnum: Drink one now and uncork your others over the next 10 years. We hope you enjoy this titanic bottling of exquisite, mature Saint-Émilion!
