With 21 classified châteaux—one First Growth, five Second Growths, ten Third Growths, three Fourth Growths, and two Fifth Growths—Margaux is arguably the crème de la crème of elite-level red Bordeaux. No other village (Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe) can match those numbers. Land, of course, comes at a costly premium, which is why small, independent estates inch closer to extinction with each passing year.
Today, a major percentage have been absorbed by larger, deep-pocketed families or corporate concerns, which is why Château Laroque is a truly rare breed. Family-owned for several generations, Laroque remains proudly independent, clinging to a scant 2.5 hectares of vines. These tiny parcels, however, lie among the vineyards of several top classified châteaux; the age-old saying ‘quality over quantity’ couldn’t be more fitting here. Now that we know just how rarefied Laroque is, as well as the breed that oozes from their vines, it’s extremely important to hammer home the blockbuster 2015 vintage. It really was a legendary year that stunned longtime wine aficionados and critics with its immense concentration and power. Laroque is one of the most polished and elegant Margaux bottlings I have tasted—it exudes pure class. Additionally, this was a direct-from-Bordeaux purchase, so once it’s gone, that’s it. Your quick action will be rewarded now and for many years to come!
After taking over from his father, Laroque’s owner, Eric Léglise, set about preserving this independent property—and he’s attracted plenty of acclaim while doing so. His wines are Margaux marvels that perfectly represent the elegant and perfumed benchmark style. Within Margaux, five villages are recognized for their superior vineyards, and this tiny, jewel-box château is in one of those: Arsac. Laroque’s 2.5 hectares here are situated just a few miles from the spectacular Château Margaux—whose own 2015 is fetching a cool $1,500.
Eric Léglise is a true vigneron and his work ethic shows it. He isn’t holed up in an office watching revenue streams come in: Eric is out among his 35-year-old vines, tending to each one by hand. Though uncertified, he farms with an organic mindset and pays great attention to the biodiversity surrounding him. For example, he catalogs each insect he encounters and encourages any and all wild flora growing within his rows. Harvest is always carried out by hand, and in the winery, a traditional fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks. Afterward, the wine ages in tank for nine months and then is transferred over to a combination of new (roughly 30%) and used French oak for an additional nine months.
Laroque’s 2015 reveals an opaque purple-black core that moves out to a bright magenta rim. With its powerful intensity, concentration, intoxicating aromatics, mistaking this for anything other than the storied 2015 vintage is all but impossible. Currants, ripe plums, black cherry blossoms, black raspberry liqueur, blueberry, tobacco, cacao, crushed rocks, damp violets, and potent baking spices explode out of the glass in perfect harmony. Nearly full-bodied with seamlessly round tannins and perfect tension brought by balanced acidity, the palate doesn’t disappoint! It’s a layered wine that never once loses sight of its underlying elegance—there’s a reason Margaux is renown for its brilliant polish and fragrance. Other than the abundance of ripeness and depth, another beautiful side of 2015 is that many of these wines are so enjoyable in their youth. With a quick 15 minute decant and 65-degree serving temperature, you and a couple of friends can plow through a few bottles without thinking twice (though there are 10+ years of life in this wine!). Further, I urge you to blind it next to another Margaux costing twice as much and watch it hold its own! Braise a lamb shoulder decorated with various herbs and enjoy a hearty pairing that glorifies the luxury of ‘15 Margaux. Cheers!