When it comes to Riesling, the three classic locales
to focus on for exam purposes are Germany,
Alsace (France), and Australia. Austrian Riesling is
also important—the wines can resemble Alsatian
and some German expressions at times—but not
likely to be included in an exam. German Rieslings
are usually clean, precise, and focused compared to
those of Alsace, which can display more oxidative/
funky aromas—thanks in part to aging in large,
old barrels. (Barrel aging and oxidative aromas are
not, however, universal in Alsace: some producers
make very clean styles, which perform similarly to
dry German styles.) First and foremost, Riesling is
always high in acidity and will ignite your salivary
response. This is the fi rst clue a wine might be
Riesling. Nearly all examples of Riesling have a
distinct “petrol” aroma (which enhances with age),
one of the major clues to the variety in a blind
tasting. Classic Australian Rieslings, especially
those from the Clare and Eden Valleys, are usually
fermented bone-dry and often possess aromas of
lime candy, green apple, and a bit of fresh rubber/
plastic in place of the petrol. If you have a dry
German Riesling next to a classic version from
Alsace (good producers to taste are Trimbach,
Weinbach, Hugel) and a top example from Clare
Valley, the differences become clear. Note that a
wine labeled ‘dry’ or ‘trocken’ may still contain up
to 9 grams/liter of residual sugar. Drink them side
by side at different temperatures and pay attention
to how the wines taste at refrigerator temp (40F)
all the way to room temp (70F).