If you subscribe to the popular theory that winemaking originated in the Caucasus region many millennia ago—a theory supported by archaeological evidence—then what you see before you is a modern expression of one of the world’s oldest wines: An Armenian red that draws on more than 6,000 years of history in its production. Just as we’ve seen a sharp uptick in interest in the wines of neighboring Georgia, Zorik Gharibian shines a spotlight (headlamp?) on his native Armenia: He built his winery right next to an archaeological site that contains the earliest-known evidence of a winemaking facility—including rudimentary wine presses and crumbling fermentation jars, all of which were covered in brittle grape stems/seeds/pips that were determined to be Areni Noir. Is this the “original” red wine grape? It’s possible, but more important than that, it’s delicious!
Where It Grows:
All of Zorah’s vines have been selected from the cuttings of an unused vineyard located next to a local 12th-century monastery. Since these vines are buried in sandy, limestone soils perched at an extraordinarily high altitude of 4,600 feet, all of them are ungrafted, as phylloxera cannot survive in these conditions. These altitudes represent the absolute upper limit for viticulture in the Northern Hemisphere.
Who Made It:
Zorah was founded in the 2000s by Zorik Gharibian, an Italian-Armenian who abandoned a fashion career in Milan to return to his roots. With Mount Ararat looming in the backdrop, Zorik was immediately drawn to the volcanic soils of Vayots Dzor, so he built a winery in the rural town of Rind and planted vineyards at elevations of 4,600 feet. After years of experimentation, he and his Italian winemaking consultant, Alberto Antonini, placed their focus squarely on the indigenous Areni Noir variety.
How It’s Made:
After hand-harvesting the Areni Noir into small baskets, the grapes are de-stemmed and sent to ferment naturally in epoxy-free concrete tanks. The wine then ages 12 months in amphorae, or karas (karasì = “from amphorae”). These karas are wax-sealed and buried three-quarters underground to ensure a steady temperature during maturation. Afterward, the wine is blended together and bottled, where it ages an additional six months before leaving the winery.
What It Tastes Like:
Expect soft, gorgeously lifted perfumes of black cherry, fresh-picked Damson plum, purple flowers, wild strawberry, exotic spice, and baked clay. The sublime palate has incredible Burgundian finesse and svelte, ultra-smooth tannins that allow the freshness to shine through. This is one of the most simultaneously delicious and unique reds in existence. Enjoy now and over the next 3 years.