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Domaine Rollin, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru “Sous Frétille”

Other, France 2018 (750mL)
Regular price$85.00
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Domaine Rollin, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru “Sous Frétille”

Fact: If today’s extraordinary, top-of-the-class white Burgundy was equally allocated around America, just eight bottles would go to each state. An extreme rarity such as this might have your mind jumping to a fabled bottling of $5,000+ Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne, so I can only imagine how shocked/perplexed you are to see an $85 Premier Cru wine in front of you—from Pernand-Vergelesses, no less! But when you start piecing together the producer and specific vine real estate, I promise that confusion instantly melts away:


Domaine Rollin is among the greatest interpreters of their village, and with their tiny, old-vine parcel in Premier Cru “Sous Frétille” they emerged with a Chardonnay that outclasses a number of far-more expensive Corton-Charlemagnes. While it certainly helps that “Sous Frétille” is just a few minutes’ walk to the Grand Cru hill of Corton, a deferential nod must be given to Rollin’s master craftsmanship in the cellar—this is where you’ll find ambient fermentations, judicious levels of new oak, and minimal influence from start to finish. Their limited 2018 release is phenomenal: It’s luxurious, vinous royalty loaded with mineral tension and rich textures that will keep developing for many years to come. Again, we must stress that this wine is hard to find no matter where you are in the world—it’s the first chance we’ve had to offer it and a second is definitely not guaranteed!


In addition to showcasing an artisanal family domaine at the very top of its game, Domaine Rollin’s “Sous Frétille” makes a convincing case for its village of origin, which sits opposite the Grand Cru hill of Corton. Because Pernand-Vergelesses is sort of tucked into its place, at the convergence of two narrow valleys, its vineyards don’t always soak up as much sunlight as some of their more famous neighbors, but whether it’s a warming climate or simply great farming and winemaking from the likes of Domaine Rollin, Pernand-Vergelesses has been consistently wowing us with the transcendent quality of its wines. If, like other Burgundy hounds, you want to explore the Côte d’Or’s most distinguished “outer boroughs,” Pernand needs to be your first stop.


And once in Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Rollin is first on the hit list. Simon Rollin represents the fourth generation to helm this small property, which covers roughly 12 hectares of vineyards in five separate communes. Although not certified, their farming is organic and meticulous, with all grapes hand-sorted both in the vineyard and the cellar before they are pressed. Their  Premier Cru “Sous Frétille” undergoes long, ambient-yeast fermentations (including malolactic fermentation), followed by 11-13 months of lees aging in 30% new French oak. 


After a 30-minute decant, one smell of Rollin’s 2018 “Sous Frétille '' immediately transported me to the neighboring hill of Corton—but this also possessed elevated levels of restraint that many Corton-Charlemagnes lack. This is brilliant, pedigreed white Burgundy that so skillfully balances the best of both Chardonnay worlds: luxury and finesse. The nose erupts with tense, high-toned aromas of ripe yellow apple, pineapple, apricot, crushed white stones, lees, lemon curd, lime zest, toasted hazelnut, and traces of baking spice. On the palate, a voluptuous, rich, and mouth-filling wine is revealed, with a steady stream of energy/tension that perfectly delineates the ripe citrus and orchard fruits from the powerful mineral imprint. Its lasting and pronounced acidity really does separate this from the pack, and I envision it will only increase its lead as it develops more bottle age. Although you can drink one of these beauties now, it will be absolutely stunning around 2025 and will keep evolving beautifully beyond 2030. Enjoy! 

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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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