“One Mad Moment” is just a flat-out delicious, masterfully crafted Australian red, and that speaks volumes coming from us. SommSelect is largely dominated by European wines, so on the rare occasion we venture down into the antipodes, you know we’ve struck liquid gold.
Today, it’s in the form of a jaw-droppingly elegant, ancient-vine blend from McLaren Vale: This Shiraz-Grenache flaunts spectacular balance and buoyancy, all while hinting at fascinating elements of California Syrah opulence, savory Northern Rhône character, and the powerful punch of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Its vivid mosaic of red, blue, and purple fruit is remarkably plush, but there’s also a wild, mint-tinged undercurrent that gives this wine an Aussie-stamped identity. I’ve tasted a lot of pricey, iconic Australian reds but I could easily rattle off a large number that simply cannot match the degree of nuance and purity in Manser’s 2016 “One Mad Moment.” At $29, this blew away our tasting group—it’s the best “Down Under” value of the year!
Up until 2015, Phil Manser had a healthy career selling Australian wine, not producing it, but during his years in wholesale and retail, he quietly spent his spare time working the vineyards to familiarize himself with viticulture. When the time came, he joined forces with his father and brother to acquire a vineyard of their own, which had previously supplied fruit to some of McLaren Vale’s blockbuster labels. Although the region built its fame on high-octane reds, the Mansers, along with winemaker Phil Christiansen, set out to capture a more graceful side of the appellation.
This has been achieved with a non-interventionist approach, letting the purity of McLaren Vale fruit speak for himself. The fruit for “One Mad Moment” is sourced from the old Blewitt Springs vineyard—planted in the 1930s and 1950s—where Shiraz and Grenache grow on well-drained sandy soil that supplies the grapes with exceptional intensity and complexity. In the cellar, the Shiraz is punched down three times a day for maximum extraction while the Grenache receives a gentler treatment. Following, the wine is raised in American oak, but the barrels are well-seasoned at four years of age, so you’re really just getting the gentlest kiss of spice.
This is such a unique and show-stopping expression of McLaren Vale—this wine has structure and edges that give it soul-stirring depth, classic Syrah umami notes, and beautiful composure to the fruit. I’ll say it again: this is one of the best values under $30 that I’ve tasted from Australia! It’s a cut above in terms of balance and depth, with striking varietal purity. There’s plenty of the lush fruit that you’d expect from South Australia—blueberry, wild raspberry, blackberry, and a heady note of kirsch—as well as candied violet, wild herbs, and a subtle touch of mint and eucalyptus. There’s also a wild, earthy tone to this wine that reminds me of walking through a cool, wet forest, with lots of damp underbrush and dew-covered leaves. And then there’s a classic, Rhône-like Syrah note of gamey, smoky meat. While it’s definitely full-bodied and rich, it’s equally clean and bright with plenty of natural acidity and freshness. If you ever want to taste a unique wine that I consider to be one of the best values coming out of South Australia, this is the wine to try. It’s going to bring a big smile to your face, especially if you love really well-made California Syrah and luxurious Châteauneuf. Serve between 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems alongside a hearty leg of lamb and plenty of fresh herbs.
