A 100 percent Cabernet Franc from Saint-Émilion Grand Cru isn’t just a surprising find—it’s like gold dust. Few have the wherewithal, conviction, and/or aptitude to bottle something this rare and unique, and those that do still tap Merlot’s soft shoulder to be a blending companion. To my knowledge, only one stands alone, confidently relying on Cabernet Franc to give a solo performance for the ages: today’s 2015 “Hellébore.” Produced by the Pueyo family of Château La Fleur Garderose, darlings of the natural wine revival, today’s bottle may very well be the most significant single-varietal Cab Franc in all of Bordeaux.
The Pueyos have long upheld the standard of honest and classic Right Bank Bordeaux with their Belregard Figeac label—all while over-oaked, over-extracted behemoths gained popularity—but they decided to push the envelope even further when releasing “Hellébore.” Cheval Blanc, Lafleur, and Le Dôme all feature significant proportions of Cabernet Franc, but a proportion isn’t enough when you’re growing some of the world’s best expressions of that variety. For “Hellébore, it’s 100% or bust, and the results are mind-blowing. There are only 25 cases—count them!—released to the United States annually, and less than 200 made total. That means fierce competition to taste what I honestly believe is a paragon of Cabernet Franc excellence from one of our favorite Right Bank Bordeaux families.
Following the Pueyos' evolution from staunch traditionalists to standard-bearers for the “new Bordeaux” has been deeply rewarding...particularly if you’ve been able to check in on their wines over the years. The family has owned the château since 1853, and is run by brother Jacques and Jean-Paul with the help of Jacques’ son Christophe, who deserves most of the credit for their modernization and experimentation with the La Fleur Garderose wines. As is the case with a new generation, Christophe has steered their production away from any influences that might cloud the terroir of their beloved Saint-Émilion. In the vineyard, he’s converted the estate to organic farming and re-emphasized the importance of entirely manual harvests. In the cellar, Christophe replaced many smaller, newer oak barrels with neutral demi-muids and enormous foudres from Austrian cooper Stockinger for better integration of wood and wine. The benefit of these changes has been most obvious in the La Fleur Garderose wines—crystal clear purity of fruit and vibrant energy that far exceeds the already superlative quality of the Belregard Figeac wines. The difference in fruit quality is immediately noticeable in the structure and concentration of each powerfully built wine. This is undoubtedly the future of Bordeaux!
Christophe’s ‘Hellébore’ is a ridiculously special, if not daring, treat. As aforementioned, 100% Cabernet Franc from Saint-Émilion is pretty much unheard of. This fruit comes from a selection of the Pueyos' family-owned, organically farmed parcels, all averaging 45 years of age. They’re planted in the Graves section of Saint-Émilion near the town of Libourne and the commune of Figeac. The most promising casks are carefully selected for the ‘Hellébore’ cuvée while the rest are blended into the Pueyos' other projects. A weeklong cold maceration with little-to-no pumping over sets the baseline for a gentler and more natural approach before spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks. The variety of neutral barrel sizes impart minimal oak flavors, instead softening the edges of the Cabernet Franc over 18 months of élevage till its texture resembles raw silk. In keeping with the theme of ‘less is more,’ the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered.
NOTE: For some bizarre reason, they decided to use a glass closure for this wine, while covering it with wax. So, do not try opening this with a corkscrew! Simply chip off the top of the wax and pop out the glass “Vino-Lok” closure by hand.
At five years of age, the ‘Hellébore’ is finally starting to sing. It practically runs you over with its brilliance the moment you open the bottle—an explosion of perfumed violets, hot berry jam, and green chiles lead the charge. Decanting for an hour will help simmer down a little of its natural spiciness, leaving behind fine lashings of tannin and a palate that’s loaded with graphite, red currants, red plum, crushed stone, fresh tobacco, and damp earth. It’s generous, textured, and fruit-forward after a warmer vintage, utterly beguiling in its ability to capture flowers, fruit, earth, and spice without letting one component dominate the others. At hour two, the structure of the ‘Hellébore’ is open-knit and still delightfully fresh, the perfect accompaniment to a perfect, rare filet dusted with grey salt and rosemary. No need to rush things—‘Hellébore’ will continue to evolve, soften, and bewitch for many, many years to come. It’s an absolute must-try for anyone pursuing the pleasures of pure Cabernet Franc!
