In our most fortunate and opportune years, we’re allocated 15 or so cases of Guy Robin’s Grand Cru “Les Clos,” an epic combination of producer and vineyard that can be matched by only a few in the world. I mention this because what we have to offer today has already taken a massive hit: One customer in particular (you know who you are!) has developed a tremendous, and warranted, obsession over this luxurious wine. So much so, that when he caught wind of the 2018 arrivals through our back channels, he purchased six. Not six bottles, mind you, but six
cases—and that’s before we could even scramble an offer together! You gotta respect that level of dedication and zeal because adding this specific Grand Cru to your collection, however big or small, means you’re a sage practitioner of elite Burgundy consumption.
Here’s why: Domaine Guy Robin is one of the fabled few reference points for all elite Burgundy, as their wines deliver more depth, typicity, and soul than 99% of all Chablis producers due to their extremely old vines. And while the opulence and mineral explosiveness of Robin’s five distinct Grand Cru bottlings are always a spectacle to behold, there’s no arguing that their old-vine “Les Clos” stands in a league of its own. As far as Chablis is concerned, this hallowed vineyard has as much critical acclaim, prestige, and allure as Côte de Beaune’s Montrachet. As you now know, our inventory is already running on “E” so we urge you to secure up to six bottles and open one every 2-3 years. It’s one of the shrewdest, most rewarding Grand Cru Burgundy buys on the market.
Once again, we are the lucky beneficiaries of Guy Robin’s foresight: Back in the 1960s, he assembled a spectacular collection of vineyard plots in Chablis, including parcels in five Grand Crus and four Premier Crus. Later, he resisted the urge to replant those vineyards with higher-yielding clones of Chardonnay (as many others did), and now his daughter, Marie-Ange Robin, is blessed with perhaps the richest trove of old vines in the region. Guy Robin’s shrewd vineyard acquisitions included significant stands of ‘pre-phylloxera’ vines—i.e., vineyards that were not destroyed during the phylloxera epidemic of the late-1800s. The phylloxera louse (a root-eating aphid) devastated the European wine industry, forcing vignerons to graft vines onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks, but it wasn’t a total annihilation. Some pockets of Europe were spared, including parts of Chablis: A good 80% of Robin’s modern-day vines are on their original roots!
The value proposition is one reason why Chablis is among the most sommelier-beloved wines in the world right now. The fact that I can actually afford to drink a wine of this level makes it that much more appealing—and Chablis doesn’t reach a higher level than Les Clos. As Burgundy lovers know, this is the largest and best-known of the seven Grand Crus of Chablis, a 27-hectare parcel on a perfectly pitched, south/southwest-facing slope. That westward tilt exposes vines to afternoon (as well as midday) sun, ensuring optimal ripening of grapes in this still-cool climate. Les Clos consistently delivers the boldest, most generous examples of Chablis Grand Cru, something that is always best exemplified by Robin’s annual bottling: Her vines clock in at 50-60-years old, and they’re all clustered together in the heart of the vineyard.
In the winery, indigenous yeasts carry out fermentation and their top wines, today’s being the pinnacle, age in a battery of French barrels, 10% new. Bottling occurs without fining or filtering, so this is always an unadulterated look into the luxury, power, and extreme precision of renowned “Les Clos. What’s more, the 2018 vintage was exceptionally warm and Robin’s bountiful crop brought intensely ripe and fleshy fruit that added an extra dimension to this already-deeply layered Chardonnay. In the glass, a brilliant yellow-gold with hints of electric green blinds the taster, and a powerful burst of high-toned aromas stuns the senses. You can expect no less than ultra-ripe green and yellow apple, pineapple core, Key lime, salted lemon peel, crushed chalk, acacia, fresh cream, lees, and a touch of vanilla bean to dominate each aromatic wave. On the palate, it has a lush, broadly textured feel reminiscent of many triple-digit Côte de Beaune Burgundies, although the deeply mineral and tense, citrusy finish indicates Grand Cru Chablis all the way. Decant for at least 60 minutes, and keep the drinking temperature well above 50 degrees while consuming to experience the full, dynamic range of its rich aromas and vivid flavors. Enjoy this perennial, best-in-class Grand Cru treat now and over the next 10-15 years.
