Today we offer one of the most limited and historic gems in the Loire Valley. If you want history, scarcity, and vivid minerality in a white that absolutely overflows with luxury, then Vigneau-Chevreau’s legendary Vouvray “Clos de Rougemont” is a must.
Here’s a snapshot: Legend has it that Saint Martin planted Vouvray’s first-ever Chenin Blanc vines right here in the Second Century, and Pope Urban II preached the First Crusade from the entrance of the 1700-year-old monastery that looms over this site. And ever since, century after century, this same, one-hectare vineyard has produced a minuscule slice (fewer than 200 cases exported to North America) of truly historic wine that deserves recognition alongside the grandest wines in the Loire Valley. There’s no doubt that one can spend a lot more money on many thoroughly inferior wines in this region, so do not let the $32 price tag fool you: if you want miles-deep minerality, scintillating acidity, and an opulent mouthfeel, treat yourself to a few bottles of this gorgeous wine. And don’t forget: Vouvray is one of the world’s most cellar-appropriate whites and today’s Clos Rougemont will easily improve for another 15 years. This beauty is a steal!
Starting in 1875, the Vigneau-Chevreau family began working the limestone/silex soils of this 20-hectare estate in Vouvray, planted entirely to Chenin Blanc. The late Jean-Michel Vigneau began steering the family’s vines toward organic viticulture in the early 1990s and, by 1999, Vigneau-Chevreau received certification from Ecocert. Shortly thereafter, the new generation of Vigneaus took the next step by adopting a biodynamic vineyard regimen—making Vigneau-Chevreau one of only two certified biodynamic producers in all of Vouvray. Jean-Michel’s sons, Christophe and Stéphane, make four categories of Vouvray: sparkling, sec (dry), demi-sec (semi-sweet), and moelleux (sweet). So, analyzing and deciding which specific rows and vines to pick early for use in the lightly sparkling pétillant wines, which sites to allow longer hang time for demi-sec, and which special clusters are most suited to attract botrytis are questions that demand constant and daily attention. Still, the most historic of the family’s vines and wines do not originate on their own farm, but instead from the famed walled vineyard, Clos de Rougemont.
The vineyard, and the site behind today’s extraordinary wine, is the crown jewel of the historic Abbaye de Marmoutier—widely regarded as one of France’s grandest Medieval monasteries. In the early 1990s, Vigneau-Chevreau was awarded vineyard rights to the “Clos” (for 50 years) in exchange for continuing its multi-century history of producing elite Chenin Blanc-based whites. And judging by the astounding quality of today’s 2018 “Clos de Rougemont,” I would say that the family is honoring their part of the bargain!
The Chevreau family generally harvests their Chenin Blanc vines at Abbaye de Marmoutier in October. Pressing is slow and deliberate, and juice is then sent via gravity flow to ferment in small stainless steel tanks. Following initial fermentation, the wine is transferred into a small collection of 10- to 15-year-old neutral French oak barrels wherein it is aged for 6 months until bottling. The end result is an extremely classic Vouvray sec-tendre (i.e. a wine that emphasizes freshness and is dry, but not screamingly acidic and bone-dry).
In the glass, Vigneau-Chevreau’s 2018 Vouvray “Abbaye de Marmoutier-Clos de Rougemont” will arive as a revelation for anyone who has previously restricted their Vouvray exploration to the “big names” that dominate the US market. For me, there is no arguing that this wine ranks among the very best. Anjou pear, Honeycrisp apple, quince, and pomelo, then a wave of subtle chamomile, lanolin, and shattered stone. Of course, as with all top-tier Vouvray, that signature “waxiness” is there, but so is that high acidity and a perfectly round and soft finish. It’s really, truly impressive stuff—and a high watermark against which all Vouvray can be judged. If drinking in the near term, please decant for 30 minutes and serve at 50 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. Classic pairing theory would call for a white protein like veal or river fish in cream sauce...but to be honest, I don’t know anyone who eats dishes like that regularly, so let’s be practical: This wine will lift grilled chicken, sushi, or practically any light Summer cuisine to new heights. Just don’t overdo the vinegar and citrus and you should be good to go! And again, this is a bottle built for extended cellar aging. The minerality, the perfectly tuned acidity, the slight kiss of sugar—it’s an arsenal of weapons that will protect this wine across two more decades of evolution in your cellar. And, for $32, I don’t know if I can suggest a better Vouvray for long term aging! Cheers.
