I’ve repeatedly said that Alsace may be the most breathtaking wine region on earth. It holds deep sentimental importance for me, not to mention that it is (1) overflowing with some of France’s most historic and impressive whites, (2) offers the country’s ONLY Grand Cru Riesling, and (3) delivers a Vosges-mountains-worth of absurdly affordable deals. Really, where else can you find a legitimate French Grand Cru, of which decorates every fine wine list, for less than $50? Only Alsace.
“Well, it doesn’t have the pedigree/history/style of Burgundy or Bordeaux,” you might say. Wrong! The Schoech family has accumulated 370 years of winegrowing expertise, and today’s even-longer-running terroir has been planted to Riesling since the 1300s. Just like there is no true overnight success in Hollywood, Grand Cru vineyards, too, don’t take immediate form. So, yes, Kaefferkopf is centuries in the making, as are the makers of its raw material, meaning today’s 2017 is a bold, powerful, deeply evocative bone-dry Riesling filled with ancient star power. If you live for the full body-and-mind stimulation of top Chablis, Grosses Gewächs Riesling, or the finest expressions of Austria’s Wachau region, this is your bottle! Only 15 cases left in America.
Do you ever wonder why so many sommeliers call Riesling their favorite grape? It’s one of the most age-worthy varieties on the planet and a chameleon capable of expressing even the most subtle distinctions of various soil types. Those who question the concept of terroir need only compare a glass of slate-grown Riesling to that of a neighboring limestone parcel—they will encounter two dramatically different wines. Terroir is a real thing and few grapes illustrate the concept as definitively as Riesling. Moreover, there’s no more versatile wine with food, period.
Today’s bottle hails from one of Alsace’s gems, the ancient Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf.” This vineyard clings to a steep, verdant hillside in the Vosges mountains and Schoech’s two organic parcels—one granite and one limestone—hover around 1000 feet in elevation. The most interesting thing about this vineyard isn’t soil or farming, though—it’s temperature! Whenever I’m in Alsace, I marvel at the region’s seemingly ever-present sun and warmth, even when it’s cold and rainy in nearby Champagne and Burgundy. That’s because Alsace’s Vosges mountains create what locals refer to as a föhn, or rain shadow breeze. As severe storms make their way through the Vosges, they gradually offload precipitation and cool air on west-facing slopes. By the time the weather system arrives at Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf,” often all that’s left is a warm, dry breeze, or föhn. This warmth is one of the many reasons why today’s wine offers such disarmingly vivid yellow apple fruit and seductive texture. It’s a special site with a truly unique microclimate.
Every low-yielding cluster is hand-harvested, fermented on ambient yeasts, and aged in both stainless steel vessels for one year. There is no chaptalization, no forced malolactic fermentation, and no fining—just clean, precise winemaking that showcases the immense mineral power, ripeness, and vigor of Grand Cru Kafferkopf. And, to avoid any premature drinking, the Shoechs hold onto their wines for two additional years after bottling! On average, only 500 cases are produced annually.
Schoech’s 2017 “Kaefferkopf” Grand Cru Riesling is all about luxurious, slow-building intensity. It doesn’t smack you around/assault your palate like some young Riesling nor does it fall flat or one-dimensional because of its youth. Instead, it offers up beautiful concentration and richness that is accompanied by exotic layers of mango peel, dragonfruit, Kiwi, lime peel, and further delineated by acacia, honeysuckle, petrol, smoke, crushed stone, and salted lemon. On the palate, a tension-filled, multi-textured Grand Cru experience boldly announces itself and stretches out for miles in every direction. It never disappoints, especially for $45. After a 30-minute decant, serve around 50-55 degrees in an all-purpose or Burgundy stem and enjoy over several hours. Uncork your other bottles over the next 10 years—they’ll only get better!
Also: If you were lucky enough to secure a bottle of Dönnhoff (Germany), Knoll (Austria), and today’s Schoech (France), then you have just completed the elite dry Riesling trifecta. Pack it up, go home, you’re done here!
