The word “cult” is particularly apropos when describing the superlative Syrahs of Etienne Bécheras. Until several years ago, it had been all but impossible to acquire a bottle stateside, and given that today is only our second time showcasing his outstanding Crozes-Hermitage, it hasn’t become much easier. After all, it’s the most pleasurable, high-demand red in his sterling and incomparably affordable lineup.
Ever the recluse, Etienne Bécheras handcrafts wines on an organic farm and barrel ages them in his rustic cellar before a small, unannounced release. As I can attest firsthand, a wine visit with him is less of a tour and more of a friendly invitation into his home; it’s an intimate, unforgettable experience. So, if you’re a dedicated student of the Northern Rhône, this super-perfumed and savory Crozes—sourced from just behind the grand hill of Hermitage—guarantees 5+ years of flattering evolution in your cellar. The real kicker here is that, despite the legendary terroir and growing hysteria, Bécheras still insists on blue-collar pricing. That’s why I have no qualms calling this the most complete, authentic, and decidedly delicious $34 Northern Rhône Syrah on the market. There are few “sure things” in wine—this is one of them.
Between five cuvées, Becheras only bottles a few thousand cases each year, and until recently, they only entered the US in suitcases of in-the-know sommeliers and tenacious collectors. Even ardent northern Rhône enthusiasts might know this property only by reputation because, frankly, there’s not much else to go on! Bécheras never submits his wines for magazine reviews, many are sold directly to Michelin-rated restaurants in France, and, historically, anyone wishing to acquire even one bottle for home consumption had to personally know the man!
Based on the purity and beauty of Becheras’ exquisite reds, one would not be faulted for imagining that the man himself would possess an aristocratic air. But he’s no delicate flower: Whenever Becheras does emerge from his secluded paradise, his shaved head, military-grade agricultural attire, and enormous biceps are impossible to miss—all of it complete with a handshake that could crumple a fire extinguisher. He is not a ‘wine professional.’ He is a farmer and craftsman, through and through.
Becheras’ property is not a typical vineyard/cellar/tasting room operation, either. It is a legitimate polycultural farm overlooking the western bank of the Rhône River. He commercially farms a few acres of organic apricot and cherry trees. A few more acres are dedicated to livestock which produce meat, cheese, and milk for his family. A large stand of ash and acacia trees nurture a bounty of wild mushrooms and truffles while offering a sustainable source of firewood and construction materials. Ultimately, it feels as if his grapevines are only one small component of his farmstead—not the centerpiece. Still, it would be a grave mistake to overlook the vinous magic happening at this rustic property.
Bécheras’ 2.5 hectares of Crozes vines are situated in the village of Mercurol, nestled right behind the looming hill of Hermitage, and the soils here are pebbly with silty clay. There is almost no topsoil so drainage is optimal. All fruit is harvested by hand at low yields and de-stemmed in the cellar. Fermentation is completed approximately three weeks later before maturation in neutral demi-muids (600-liter French barrels) for no less than one year. It is bottled without fining or filtration. The wine then rests for an additional six months before release.
This is a young Syrah, obviously, but that doesn’t make it any less addicting. It spills into a Burgundy stem with vibrant dark purple and ruby hues and quickly returns intoxicating swells of boysenberry, huckleberry, Damson plum, and black cherry. Candied violets and other purplish flora fill in immediately after alongside soft baking spice, fresh pepper, and olive pit. It’s so refreshing yet simultaneously nuanced and noble, and while I’m certain its most serious drinking window won’t arrive for another 1-2 years, the immediate pleasure it provides now simply cannot be ignored. I suggest doubling whatever quantity you normally buy! Cheers!
