To uncork a bottle of Domaine du Possible’s C’est Pas la Mer à Boire” is to learn firsthand what many of the most forward-thinking sommeliers in the world have been whispering in their circles for a few years now: Roussillon might just be France’s most exciting and emerging wine region. If, like so many of us, you’ve long thought of these Southern reds as clunky and over-extracted, I can think of no better corrective than this stunningly pure and elegant Grenache blend from Loïc Roure. 

High-toned red fruit and floral notes, seductive whole-cluster spice, and a refreshingly luxuriant structure all combine for a juicy yet serious bottle that any Burgundy or Beaujolais lover will fall hard for. Organically farmed and bottled with only a tiny dose of sulfur, it’s a dazzling, über-fresh, old-vine testament to the Roussillon’s potential—the sort of bottle that sets a room of sommeliers alight with excitement. Of course, the degree of artisanal craftsmanship on display in today’s offer cannot be replicated on a large scale, so quantities are limited. Grab a few and you’ll soon be singing Roussillon’s praises!

There is a genuine revolution underway in the Roussillon, and Loïc Roure is one of its leaders. For decades, this unheralded region in France’s far southwestern corner was primarily thought of as a mass producer of dessert wines, home as it is to Maury, Rivesaltes, and Banyuls. But about fifteen years ago, something began to change. Producers like SommSelect favorite Domaine Gauby proved that truly singular table wines could be made here, thanks to the cooling maritime influence and limestone- and schist-rich soils. Add in the fact that most vineyards here are very old (50-year-old vines seem to be the starting point) and that the land was relatively cheap, and it became a beacon for aspiring winemakers all over France.

The Roussillon now commands significant space on the wine lists at the most die-hard natural wine restaurants in Copenhagen and Paris. Right now, the region feels like how I imagine Cru Beaujolais must have when Kermit Lynch’s “Gang of Four” (Lapierre, Foillard, etc.) were making waves. At the very forefront of the cadre of young, wildly talented winemakers is Loïc Roure. At Domaine du Possible in the tiny village of Lansac, he farms vineyards of mainly Grenache and Carignan entirely organically. He works in Lansac’s old cooperative space and brings a remarkably restrained and transparent touch to his winemaking. Everything is fermented spontaneously, aged in concrete, and sulfured in tiny amounts at bottling. Loïc aims for drinkability above all else, and that’s apparent here: Despite coming in at 14% alcohol, this is bright and fresh, a red to be served chilled and enjoyed conspicuously.

“C’est Pas la Mer à Boire” is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Carignan, all from vineyards over a half-century old. The varieties ferment separately as whole clusters, semi-carbonically, before aging for 12 months in concrete. It pours a limpid ruby moving to a pink rim. The nose sings with crushed strawberry, Bing cherry, raspberry liqueur, lavender, rose petals, Provençal scrub, and heady cinnamon spice. On the palate, it’s incredibly bright and fresh, with a softness and plushness that belies its Meditteranean origins. Imagine great semi-carbonic Cru Beaujolais with a darker, wilder fruit profile and you’re getting close to “C’est Pas la Mer à Boire.” I have a feeling we’ll be returning to the Roussillon many times over the next few years, so get on board now!