Although every credible sommelier should be able to successfully “blind” today’s gem as best-in-class Rías Baixas, you certainly don’t need any certifications to savor and appreciate the electrifying wine in the bottle. This spectacular and effortlessly delicious beauty comes from one of the hottest names and most respected terroirs in the Iberian Peninsula: Bodegas Fulcro in Val do Salnés, the birthplace of Albariño.

As such, it’s home to some of the greatest estates in Galicia like Zárate, Palacio de Fefiñanes, and Albamar. If those names mean nothing to you, imagine you’re in Chassagne-Montrachet where the iconic domaines of Ramonet, Pillot, and Gagnard reside. Now, recall the deafening buzz cult legend Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey received upon entering the Chassagne scene in the 2000s, and apply that same level of excitement to Bodegas Fulcro in Val do Salnés. This is where you’ll find an impassioned vigneron working by hand, avoiding chemicals, and barrel-raising wines that are now top contenders in the highly exalted Rías Baixas arena. Translation: Fulcro’s built-from-granite, citrus-infused masterpiece will leave you breathless, and, like PYCM, its stock is guaranteed to soar. 

In both scale and spirit, Bodegas Fulcro is a true “garage” winery, founded in 2009 by Manuel Moldes Morana (locally known as “Chicho”) who had made wine as a hobby before entering the commercial realm. His winery is in Pontevedra and his vineyards practically border the coast in the municipalities of Sanxenxo and Meaño. This is the cool, salty heart of the Rías Baixas, with a tangle of streams winding their way into the Atlantic through soils of decomposed granite and coarse sand. “Pedreira” is the name of one of Chicho’s most-prized single vineyards where vines range between 35-45 years of age and the soils are rich in granite. The parcels are worked by hand and have been untouched by chemicals since he took over. 

“A Pedreiras” is Bodegas Fulcro’s flagship wine, crafted from 100% Albariño and naturally fermented in three distinct vessels: neutral 500-liter French barrels, stainless steel, and a single foudre. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation but does spend about six months aging on its lees, resulting in a wine that displays some creaminess on the palate while maintaining lots of racy acidity and the telltale salinity so typical of Rías Baixas whites.

In the glass, this fresh ’21 release displays a radiant straw-yellow core with faint reflections of silver and green moving out to a clear rim.  The nose, reticent at first, eventually gives way to citrus blossoms, sea spray, lemon peel, fresh-cut green apple, melon skin, white peach, wet stone, and stirred lees. Refreshing swells of citrus fruit storm the medium-bodied palate alongside a soft stony minerality that’s further enhanced by bright, mouthwatering acidity. Manuel incorporated more neutral oak aging in this vintage, which gives the layered palate a broader, deeper feel than the previous two releases we’ve offered. Accordingly, it’s my favorite vintage of his to date! Enjoy now and over the next 2-3 years in all-purpose stems, chilled to 50 degrees.